Srinagar to Kashgar by Road : The First Motorised Crossing of the Greatest Mountain Ranges

The Complete Beirut to Beijing Route

Once the Expedition commenced there arose new Challenges. Though the Afghanistan Civil War had ended, the situation in North Afghanistan and Routes into the Pamirs were far from being safe for the Expedition. So another detour was decided. It was decided that the Expedition would now crossover into India from Afghanistan and then they would take the Mountain track that connected Srinagar in Kashmir with Yarkand / Tashkurgan in Chinese Turkestan or what is now Xinjiang

Amarnath Yatra 1898 Diwan Alim Chand

Maharaja Partap Singh (middle) flanked by Raja Amar Singh (right) and the Mahant of the Yatra at Chandanwari Camp.

Diwan Alim Chand was a Pioneering Photographer attached to the Court of the Dogra Maharajas of Jammu and Kashmir. Diwan Alim Chand also had the privilege of having taken the first Photographs of the Amarnath Yatra back in 1898 when Maharaja Partap Singh, the Maharaja at that time had gone on a Pilgrimage to the Holy Cave.

Wazir Lakhpat Rai Padari of Padar, Kishtwar

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Well it starts with the Raja of Kishtwar called, very interestingly, Raja Mohammed Teg Singh also known as Saifullah Khan. Though the Rajas of Kishtwar had converted to Islam they kept a mix of Muslim Hindu names and followed many Hindu costums and this Raja was no different. He was a vassal of the Afhna Governor of Kashmir who fell out with the Rulers in Kabul. A force was sent to Kashmir from Kabul but the Governor stood up to it and was assisted in the same by forces from Kishtwar. And by this time Raja Mohammed Tegh Singh had got into a service a new Minister called Wazir Lakhpat Rai Padari, who as the name suggests was from Padar.

The Bridges of Srinagar by Francis Firth

This famous 92 yard Bridge was originally constructed by Sultan Zain- ul- Abidin Budshah in 1427 AD. It was a typical wooden bridge of cantilever design. In those days it was utilized as a Market as well. The bridge was dismantled completely as it w…

Srinagar City as most must be aware is settled on both Banks of the Jehlum and as such there were a number of Bridges which were put across the Jehlum originally starting with the First Bridge or Amira Kadal which was my favourite as it was closes to Home and we had a Shop there where I used to walk to often as a kid. Of course then the Zero Bridge was built which was without doubt everyone's favorite because of Little Hut. The Sardarji's shop which sold the best Softy in Kashmir.

Gold Prospecting in the Riyasat e Jammu and Kashmir 1890

A Man Sand Washing for Gold somewhere in Baltistan

The Gazetteer of Kashmir and Ladakh of 1890 is a treasure trove of information regarding various aspects in the state. This is the small little Chapter in the Gazetteer which talks of Gold prospecting in the Riyasat. And of course it talks of some Gold mining in Baltistan.

Kashmir : Do’s and Donts from 1902

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In 1902, the Foreign Department of the British Government in India issued a Guide for foreign visitors to the territories of the Maharajah of Jammu and Kashmir and especially to the Kashmir Valley. It was called Kashmir Visitor Rules : Rules and Regulations for Observance by Visitors and Residents in the Territories of H H The Maharaja of Jammu and Kashmir

The Last Anglo Abor War 1911

The Anglo Abor War was a series of events which took place in 1911 between the British and the Abor Tribesmen in what is today Arunachal Pradesh. The British were keen to explore and Map out the almost impenetrable Jungles that the Siang River cut through in the Eastern Himalayas. And of course this put them on a collision course with the local Tribal communities who saw them as invaders and outsiders.

Video of Duke of Abruzzi’s Karakoram Expedition of 1909

An extremely rare Video of the Duke of Abruzzi’s Karakoram Expedition of 1909.

The Stilwell Road

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The Stilwell Road Project once termed as an “impossible Engineering pipe dream” was not merely an Engineering feat accomplished but a saga of Valour, Grit and Determination. It stands as a testament to the Men responsible and the indomitable human spirit that made it possible.” This is the inscription at the Jairampura Cemetery, the largest Cemetery dating back to the Second World War and at the cemetery lie the remains of hundreds of Men who gave up their lives during the building of this Road. Amongst the dead were Indians including many local Tribals, Chinese, Americans and Burmese.

Nampong - Hell’s Gate on the Stillwell Road

The Church in Nampong

Nampong was the last town on the Indian side on the Stilwell or the Ledo Road as it was called. It was around 13 kms before the infamous Pangsau Pass which was also called the Hell’s Pass and Nampong was considered the gateway to Hell's Pass and hence the name Hell’s Gate. This was when the Road started a climb to get over the Pansau Pas which was at almost 1200 m and Nampong was at about 300 m.

The Forgotten Jairampur Cemetery

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The Forgotten Jairampur Cemetery on the Stillwell Road near the border of Arunachal with Burma. The largest WWII Cemetery in India which was lost to the jungle but re-discovered in 1997.

Historical Map of the Dogra Kingdom of Jammu and Kashmir

The State of Jammu and Kashmir as it was at its largest extent under the rule of the Dogras. This Map helps people understand the complicated Geography and Diversity of the erstwhile State of Jammu and Kashmir.

Pahadi Wilson : The English Raja of Harsil

Once upon a time there was an Englishman, called Pahadi Wilson who had crowned himself the Raja of Harsil so much so that he even issued his own currency, his own coin, for use in his own domain. Frederick E Wilson was his real name and his escapades could probably fill in a couple of Volumes. He was a Spy for the British Government and reportedly even had an affair with a Rani Sahib of Tehri it is said. And it is said that a curse was cast upon him and his coming generations by none other that Lord Shiva himself. Even the legendary Rudyard Kipling, who was a friend of his, described him as such, “lived a life that would have been the envy of kings”.

The Gilgit Game

Rakaposhi Peak as seen from the Gilgit Valley. Pic Courtesy Wikipedia — Rakaposhi Peak as seen from the Gilgit Valley. Pic Courtesy Wikipedia

Gilgit, strategically located is a vast valley around the point where the Gilgit and Hunza River meet beyond the Great Himalayan Range .. It was bound from the North on one side by the Karakoram Range and on the Western side by the Hindu Kush. Its location particularly later in history was one of immense importance once the Great Game started between Tsarist Russia and Imperial Britain.

The Indigenous People of Jammu and Kashmir

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The erstwhile State of Jammu and Kashmir was one of the most diverse State in the country in Ethnic, Religious and Lingual dimensions. The main "People" of Jammu and Kashmir and its different regions are briefly described in this Article.

The Dudu Timber Saga

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A tale from a time gone by when Forests were seen as great Resources of Timber and vast tract of these Himalayan Forests were given out on contract for Timber extraction. My Family was also involved in this Timber trade and were known as others in this business at Forest Leasees. This particular story is from the remote and unknown Dudu Latti Valley in Udhampur District in the Jammu Division of the Union Territory of J&K.

The Dhankar Buddha of Spiti

The Dhankar Gompa in Spiti as among st its posessions a metal Statue of the Buddha which was off limits to outsiders. A few people had ever seen and it was first photographed for open sources only in 2010. This is the story of the Buddha which came all the way from Gilgit

The Chamba Lahaul and the British Lahaul Story

Looking towards Chamba Lahaul from outside Udaipur

Lahaul and Spiti have had a checkered fascinating history and lying on the Himalayan borderlines they have always been the bone of contention for various powers in the Region from the states of Kashmir, Chamba, Kullu, Bushahr, Ladakh, Guge, Tibet, the Chinese and even the Mongols, Baltis and Yarkandis. However little is known of the exact circumstances and the chain of events of History that followed as there are no written records. All the above powerful states / people left some mark or influence on these two adjoining Regions. This is an attempt to piece together their History though for most of the time the History followed its separate course in Lahaul and its own course in Spiti.

The Story of the Poonch Kingdom

Poonch is nowadays one of the most backward Districts of Jammu and Kashmir but it was once an important Hill Kingdom ruled by Rajput Hill Rajas, as was the norm in the lower Himalayas but over a period of time they had converted to Islam just like the Rajas of Kishtwar. The majority population of Poonch consists of Gujars and Bakarwals, along with Pahadis, Kashmiris, Punjabis, Rajputs and some Dogras.One feature which kinda unites the populace is that almost everyone speaks a version of Pahadi which is understood and spoken across the board. Traditionally Poonch has always been more of Punjabic / Potoharic (As in belonging to the Potohar Plateau) than Jammuic or Kashmiric.

The Original Mountain Men and Women of the Western Himalayas

Ive had a childhood fascination for the Gujjars and especially the Bakarwals while growing up in Kashmir. Well they are almost the same thing except that nowadays the ones who live in fixed locations are called Gujjars while the ones which move up and down with their herds are referred to as the Bakarwals. Also as the name suggests it comes from the word Bakri, so a Bakarwal is also a keeper of the Sheep. Especially in the State of Jammu and Kashmir. There isnt a single Region in this vast State which is not familiar with the congenial Bakarwals who flocked to the highlands with their Goat/ Sheep / Buffaloes / Horses/ Mules which they term as “Maal” as in “Goods”. That is the commodity that they deal in and a Bakarwal is judged by the size of his Herd. And then there were my favourite part of a Bakarwal entourage, the Shepherd Dogs also called by the same name Bakarwal or Bakarwali.