A Journey to Galwan Valley

Five years ago the Galwan Valley was in the News for the wrong reasons after a deadly clash between the Indian and Chinese Armies in the Valley located in Ladakh lead to many deaths on the contentious Border between the two countries in wake of continued Chinese intrusions into Indian territory.

This area along the Shyok River, of which the Galwan Nallah or the Galwan River which forms the Galwan Valley has been off limits to Civilians since long but now the Indian Government has decided to open up the area for Civilians and we were amongst the First Civilians to venture into this beautifully desolate part of the Eastern Karakorams in Ladakh. Earlier Civilians could only venture upto the Village of Shyok from where the Shyok River takes a U turn and flows in a Northerly direction.

Ten Offbeat Locations in Kashmir

Kashmir, the Paradise on Earth as some call it hs been fortunate to have witnessed the arrival of Tourists in their thousands in the last few Years. Peak Seaon in the Summers when the Heat scorches the Plains hordes of Tourists rush North into the coller and rejuvenating climes of Kashmir.

Warwan Valley

n the Inner Himalayas lies a beautiful Region so remote that most people haven't even heard of it forget about going there. Kishtwar itself is remote and always under the shadow of Kashmir but this part of Kishtwar which lies next to Kashmir on one side and the Suru Valley of Ladakh on the other side is probably one of the last great wildernesses in the Inner Himalayas. This is the Warwan- Marwah - Dachchan belt lies along the Maru Wadwan River or as its also known Warwan / Marwah (Marev) / Marsu Dhar River along different parts of its course, which is a major tributary of the Chenab. These three sub parts of this Region all lie along the same River and offer a rare insight into how people lived maybe many years ago. Sandwiched between the Pir Panjals and the Great Himalayan Range this is a Region few outsiders have set foot.

https://travelthehimalayas.com/kiki/warwan-marwah-dacchan-the-last-inner-himalayan-wilderness

Gurez Valley

The beautiful Valleys of Gurez and Tulail are located within the folds of the Great Himalayan Range in the beautiful Valley created by the Kishanganga River as it runs down its course from its point of origin at the Kishansar Lake located in the Mountains above Sonamarg. The access to the Gurez Valley is via the Razdan Pass and the Road from Srinagar winds its way along the Wullar Lake and then from Bandipora the climb starts to Tragbal and further to the Razdan Pass.

The LOC runs through Gurez and you can see the Border fence at most places in the Gurez and the Tulial Valleys. On one end of the Gurez Valley lies the Village of Bagtore which is one of the last Villages on th Indian side of the LoC. On the other end of the Tulail Valley is the Kaobal Gali which connects this Valley with the Mushkoh Valley in the Drass Region of Ladakh. This used to be one of the main access points into Gurez / Tulail till 1947 after which this Road became off limits for Civilians with only the Army using it.

The Gurez and Tulail Valleys have a distinct Culture and the majority of the people here are Shina and speak the Shina language which is also spoken in the Gilgit Region acrosss the LoC. The Guez / Tulail Valleys are dotted with picturesque Villages with Houses made of Timber just like it has been done for Centuries.

ttps://travelthehimalayas.com/gurez

https://travelthehimalayas.com/kashmir-gurez-bangus

Chiranbal

Chiranbal is a mesmerizing meadow and a rising tourist destination nestled in the Kulgam district of Jammu and Kashmir, India.It's famed for its captivating landscape, boasting a vast expanse of emerald green meadows embraced by snow-capped peaks of the Brahma Sakli mountain range. The Zajinar River, a tributary of the Veshaw River, snakes its way through the meadow, adding to its charm.

Chiranbal offers a haven for nature enthusiasts. The meadows are a tapestry of vibrant greens, interlaced with wildflowers and pine forests. The sight of snow-clad mountains contrasting with the verdant meadows is truly breathtaking. Chiranbal comprises twin meadows - Upper Chiranbal (Haer Chiranbal) and Lower Chiranbal (Bon Chiranbal). Upper Chiranbal is placed at a slightly higher elevation and boasts a captivating panorama.

The ideal time to visit Chiranbal is during the summer months (June to September) when the weather is pleasant, and the meadows are adorned with wildflowers. While limited accommodation options exist in Chiranbal, most visitors opt for camping or guesthouses in nearby villages.

Chatpal

Chatpal is a picturesque village nestled amidst the mountains in the Shangus district of Kashmir, India. Unlike other tourist destinations in Kashmir, Chatpal offers a tranquil escape, untouched by commercialization. It's ideal for travelers seeking peace and serenity in nature's embrace.

Chatpal boasts breathtaking natural beauty. Lush green valleys, cascading streams, and snow-capped mountains in the distance create a postcard-perfect landscape. The fresh mountain air and the gentle murmur of streams will leave you rejuvenated.

The village offers a glimpse into the simple and traditional way of life in Kashmir. You can interact with the locals, learn about their culture, and savor delicious home-cooked meals.For adventure enthusiasts, Chatpal offers trekking trails that take you through meadows, forests, and to viewpoints offering stunning vistas of the valley.

Bangus Valley

https://travelthehimalayas.com/bangus

https://travelthehimalayas.com/cover-bangus

https://travelthehimalayas.com/keran

Teethwal

Teethwal and Tangdhar are located in the Karnah Valley which lies across the Shamshabari Mountains and you cross over from the Sadhna or the Nastachun Pass which is probably one of the most fiercely guarded Mountain Passes in the Country. That's not surprising especially if you remember the Battle of Tithwal and the fact that Two Param Vir Chakras were conferred during the Battle.

Crossing over the Pass you descend into the beautiful Tangdhar Valley with its green verdant fields and Houses spread over a large area. And the people of this area are mostly Pahadi instead of Kashmiri. You first need permission to come till Tangdhar and then from the Tangdhar Police Station you need another permission to go to Tithwal which lies right at the LoC.

Tithwal itself is a peaceful Village by the River with POK right across the River with a Restaurant along the main Road from where People from the other side look down on the people on the other side.

https://travelthehimalayas.com/teethwal-tangdhar

Machil

The Machil Valley lies on the Northern fringes of the Kashmir Valley in the District of Kupwara. Its nestled around the Machil River and in geographical terms its stands North of the Lolab Valley across the Zamindar Gali, a Pass that needs to be crossed in order to get into the Machil Valley. It lies close to the Line of Control and as such the access is limited. Its nonetheless a beautiful area which is like a mix of Lolab Valley to the South and Gurez Valley to the East.

Machil or Matsil as its called was always a fascinating little place for people since they read about its beauty and remote location. Though the Civilian Authorities and the Army call it Machil or Machal (not to be confused with Machail of Paddar, Kishtwar) the locals call it Matsil. The name is derived from the Dardic word for Fish. Its said that once upon a time the Matsil River which drains the Valley was full of Fishes.

Machil Valley is accessed via the Z Gali or the Zamindar Gali over the Shamshabari Mountain Range. Its called the Zamindar Gali as in the olden times many people in Lolab used to have Land in Matsil where they used to grow Crops in the summertime. Over time some of these people settled here. Also as per the Gazzette of 1890 this area was often raided by Chilasis (yes from Chilas) so that also kept people away though the area is awash with Gujjars and Bakarwals who come here with their livestock for the rich pasturage the Valley offers in the Summers.

Experience Matsil and other Kashmir LOC areas by being a Part of our Kashmir LOC Experience. For More Details please see this Link https://travelthehimalayas.com/kashmir-experiences#/kashmir-loc-expereince/

Dudi Village Machil Sector Kupwara Kashmir

Road in Dudi Village Machil Kupwara North Kashmir

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Tosa Maidan

Tosa Maidan is a meadow located in the Kashmir Valley of India, known for its scenic beauty and historical significance. The name translates to "King of Meadows" and aptly describes the vastness of the meadow, sprawling over 65 square kilometers.

Tosa Maidan is situated at an altitude of 10,395 feet (3,167 meters) in the Pir Panjal range of the Himalayas. It's surrounded by dense forests, offering a tranquil escape amidst nature. In summer, the meadows transform into a vibrant green carpet, dotted with wildflowers and the camps of Gujjar shepherds grazing their sheep.

Keran

Keran is a Village which lies divided right on the Line of Control with one part in India in the Kupwara District of Jammu and Kashmir and the other part in Pakistan Occupied Kashmir. And the River Kishanganga (called Neelum by the other side) runs through it. Keran is located across the Shamshabari Mountains which one has to cross across the Firkiyan / Firkin / Pharkiyan Gali. At Keran one can view life across the LOC and the Resorts built on th other side of the Line of Control.

Keran : The Village of Keran is said to have been established by Raja Bahadur Khan in the tenth Century. Also located on the banks of the Kishenganaga River, Keran enjoys a majestic view. To reach Keran Valley one has to Pass through the Firkin Gali. It is 37 kilometers towards West from Kupwara. 89 kilometers from Kralpora and 118 kilometers from the state Capital Srinagar. One the way to Keran the other places of interest are Milyal, Raja Ram Mountains, Firkin Village, Kralpora, Trehgam and the Kheerbhawani Temple at Tikker, Kupwara.

From the Firkin Gali a Road link connects it with the Sadhna Top and is known for its mesmerizing and enchanting beauty on both sides of Kashmir. On the way one can witness the lush Green forests, Meadows, Streams and also the Ancient Architecture.

Signages in Keran on the banks of the Kishanganga which is called Neelum by our Neighbours.

Uri

Uri is a town which is located along the Historic Cart Road along the Jehlum which once connected Srinagar and the Kashmir Valley with Rawalpindi and the Punjab in the Pre Partition Days. However since the Partition came about and following the first Indo Pak War in 1947/48 Uri became the last major Town on the Indian side and the LoC lies beyond Uri.

Uri is now a sprawling and bustling Border Town and with the opening of Tourism spots in and around Uri it stands to attract some Tourists out of the bulk that descends upon Kashmir every year especially in the Summer Months.

The main attraction is the Aman Setu at the Kaman Post, which is a Bridge which connects both sides of the LoC. You can also see the former Indo Pak Border Trade Center at Salamabad which now lies deserted. There are other ares which can be visited around Uri as well.

https://travelthehimalayas.com/kiki/2021/12/14/the-road-to-uri

The Nanga Parbat from the Kashmir Valley

The Nanga Parbat Massif is the Western anchor of the Great Himalayan Range which stretches from here right upto the Namche Barwa in the East. At 8126 m its also the Ninth Highest Mountain on the Planet and for many Years in the 1800s when Western Explorers first came across this Mountain was considered the highest Mountain in the World. Its local name is Diamer or Deo Mir. One wouldnt blame them due to the sheer perpendiculairty of the Rupal face of the Mountain. The Nanga Parbat Massif consists of a number of different Peaks with the Nanga Parbat being the Highest.

The Peaks of the Nanga Parbat Massif marked

Of course due to the play of History and Politics the Nanga Parbat lies in a part of the former state of Jammu and Kashmir which is under illegal occupation by our Neighbourso we cant really get close to the Peak. But thank God for small mercies that we still have places in the Kashmir Valley from where we can view the "Killer Mountain", named so because of the sheer difficulty it presents to Mountaineers that try and climb this Peak as well as a reference to the great number of People who have lost thier lives while trying to climb this Mountains. Anyways mentioning below a few places in the Kashmir Valley from where one can view the Nanga Parbat.

First and foremost probably the best view of the complete Massiff is from Gulmarg. Gulmarg is a Meadow in the Pir Panjals at the South Western end of the Valley and the Great Himalayan Range is right across the Valley. Infact technically the Nanga Parbat should be visible from other Meadows in the Pir Panjal. In Gulmarg there is a point called the Nanga Parbat viewpoint. Of course if you move higher to Kongdori or Khilanmarg the view just gets better. Actually even from points below Gulmarg like Kunzer for example you can see the Nanga Parbat on a clear day. Ive even seen an captured the Nanga Parbat while coming down from Tosa Maidan.

The Nanga Parbat on the Horizon while around Gogaldhara

Another point which has great views of the Nanga Parbat is the Zamindar Gali or the Z Gali which connects th rest of the Valley to the Machil area. Actually the Nanga Parbat is visible from all high Points on the Shamshabari Mountains as beyond these Mountains it is by far the most formidable Mountain and dwarfs the entire Geography around. On the Zamindar Gali alos there is a Nanga Parbat view point as well as an observation Tower built for the same.

Hidden in the clouds as seen from the Shamshabari Mountains

Then another place from where you can see the Nanga Parbat is the Razdan Top which connects Kashmir with Gurez. Though only the tip of the Mountain is visible and very few people are aware of the exact point where its visible from. Infact the first time I had gone looking for the Nanga Parbat from the Razdaan Pass I had to use all my Knowledge of Mountain Geography and ofcourse an app helped but still took us sometime to get a view of the Giant. However most peopl who go to Gurez miss this great sight because someone hsto point it out to you otherwise you will just miss it.

Last but not the least you can catch a glimpse of this Giant when your Flight takes off from Srinagar and the day is clear and you know which side to look. Again it just appears for a moment before the Aircraft usually takes a turn towards the opposite direction.

Hopefully on your next Trip to Kashmir you would be able to get a Glimpse of this outstanding Mountain.

A Culinary Holiday in Kashmir by Marryam Reshii

A holiday in Kashmir involves much travelling around by car from Srinagar (not only the capital but the base of most visitors), a shikara ride, walking around markets and the Old City – a heritage site in its own right. That’s all very well, but it is convenient to know where you can grab a bite, preferably in the area where you are seeing the sights.

Keran : Where a River Runs Through

A Photo Gallery of Keran along the Line of Control in Jammu and Kashmir

Most People while visiting Ladakh just visit the same old Places, popular Tourist places and ones popularized by Bollywood and Influencers on Social Media. As a result a few Places bear the brunt of the Tourist footfalls which has serious Environmental and Social Impact.

I have always subscribed to the Philosophy that instead of sending 100 people to 5 places send 20 people to 25 places. Ecologically viable Tourism starts by spreading the load of the Tourists. And here is a list of Ten Things that I would recommend to do in Ladakh. And please remember that Ladakh is a large Region and most of it is rather unknown for most people. Ive added a Note on the Mountain Geography of Ladakh for easier understanding. You can also read my Ladakh Travel Guide for General Information.

So I have compiled a list of Ten Things that I would do in Ladakh, keeping in view all my Visits and Readings on Ladakh. They are in no particular order and each One is a Unique experience in its own.

kaobal gali and the kaobal sar also known as the draupadi kund — The Kaobal Gali with the Kaobal Sar or Draupadi Kund at its foot

The Kaobal Gali stands at an Elevation of 4167 metres (app 13600 ft) on the main Great Himalayan Range has traditionally connected the Tulail and Gurez Valleys with the Mushkoh Valley in the Drass Region. Interestingly people on both sides of the Pass are Shina and speak Shina language just like their fellow Dardic Shina people in Gilgit. This is a peculiarity as usually when you cross a Pass on the Great Himalayan Range the Culture Language and People change.

Most people are eternally confused about the location of the LoC in Kashmir. And Tourists are shown the LoC from almost everywhere. Even the Pahalgam side.

Anyways this is a simple Map which explains the LoC in Kashmir.

Once the Expedition commenced there arose new Challenges. Though the Afghanistan Civil War had ended, the situation in North Afghanistan and Routes into the Pamirs were far from being safe for the Expedition. So another detour was decided. It was decided that the Expedition would now crossover into India from Afghanistan and then they would take the Mountain track that connected Srinagar in Kashmir with Yarkand / Tashkurgan in Chinese Turkestan or what is now Xinjiang

One of the relatively unknown areas of Kashmir with vast tourism potential is the Valley of Bangus. Lying within the Trans Himalayan Area, Bangus is a unique combination of ecological area, compromising Mountain Biome, which includes Grassland Biome with flora at lower altitudes, and Taiga or Coniferous forest.

habba-khatoon-peak-gurez-kashmir-offbeat — *The Habba Khatoon Peak with the Kishanganga River in the foreground*

Gurez is a Valley in the north of Kashmir. It stretches from a short way above Gurais Fort to below Sirdari. The main road, leading from Kashmir into the Valley, crosses the Rajdihgan Pass ; the distance from Bandipura, at the head of the Wular lake, to Kanzalwan, on the left bank of the Kishanganga, being about 25 miles, which is usually divided into three stages. The entrance to the valley is exceedingly picturesque, as the river comes dashing along through a rich meadow, partly covered with lindens, walnut, mud willow trees, while the mountains on either side present nothing but a succession of most abrupt precipices, end alpine ledges, covered with fir trees. It is nowhere above a mile in width, and is surrounded on every side by lofty peaks, chiefly of mountain limestone, rising far above the limit of forest which covers their lower slopes.

Col Starchey was an Officer in the British Army and was involved in the Surveying and Mapping the unmapped Regions to the North of the Great Himalayan Range as well as around Tibet. He made various Journey’s to the Region and came up with some Great Maps of the area and one of the most prominent being the Maps of Ladakh (Western Tibet as it was called) and the Regions around it.

But as the Weather Readings below will testify the Monsoon is not consistent over the Himalayas. Different areas in the Himalayas get different amounts of Rainfall during the Monsoons. And the Monsoons are not the only Rainy Season in the Western Himalayas. There is another Rainy Season which arrives in December and it comes in the form of what we call Western Disturbances which are Rain bearing Clouds rising above the Mediterranean and making its way to the Western Himalayas.

A Rough Guide for People planning to visit the Kashmir Valley. And notes on the History, Culture and most importantly the Geography of the Region. And taking you beyond the normal Tourist Hotspots into more Offbeat and even unheard of places in Kashmir.

Kishtwar itself is remote and always under the shadow of Kashmir but this part of Kishtwar which lies next to Kashmir on one side and the Suru Valley of Ladakh on the other side is probably one of the last great wildernesses in the Inner Himalayas. This is the Warwan- Marwah - Dachchan belt lies along the Maru Wadwan River or as its also known Warwan / Marwah (Marev) / Marsu Dhar River along different parts of its course, which is a major tributary of the Chenab.

The Kishanganga is the main River flowing through the enchanting Gurez Valley rising in the Kishansar Lake (which is a part of the Group of Lakes commonly referred to as the Great Lakes) and flowing through some great Mountain scenery until its confluence with the Jhelum around Muzaffarabad in Pakistani held Kashmir. The River was renamed as the Neelam in Pakistan in the 1950s. Old Maps and Books still refer to it as the Kishanganga.

The Himalayas might be the highest Range in the World but when it comes to sheer perpendicularity nothing compares to the mighty Karakorams. Many people consider the Karakoram to be a part of the Himalayas but its not. Its a separate Range in its own right. It might be considered at a part of the Great Himalayan Complex of Mountains that radiate out of the Pamir Knot. In common parlance the term Karakoram is synonymous with its most famous Peak, the K2 or the Godwin Austen as it was once called. But other Peaks and parts of it are relatively unknown.

Maharaja Partap Singh (middle) flanked by Raja Amar Singh (right) and the Mahant of the Yatra at Chandanwari Camp.

Diwan Alim Chand was a Pioneering Photographer attached to the Court of the Dogra Maharajas of Jammu and Kashmir. Diwan Alim Chand also had the privilege of having taken the first Photographs of the Amarnath Yatra back in 1898 when Maharaja Partap Singh, the Maharaja at that time had gone on a Pilgrimage to the Holy Cave.

A Journey to Galwan Valley

Galwan Valley opened for Tourists

Ten Offbeat Locations in Kashmir

Warwan Valley

Gurez Valley

Chiranbal

Chatpal

Bangus Valley

Teethwal

Machil

Tosa Maidan

Keran

Uri

The Nanga Parbat from the Kashmir Valley

A Culinary Holiday in Kashmir by Marryam Reshii

Keran : Where a River Runs Through

Ten Offbeat Things to Do in Ladakh

The Elusive Kaobal Gali

Kiki’s Ten Things to Do in Ladakh

Understanding the LoC in Kashmir

Srinagar to Kashgar by Road : The First Motorised Crossing of the Greatest Mountain Ranges

Lolab and Bangus

Gurez and Tulail : Then and Now

Starchey's Ladakh 1851

Rainfall in the Himalayas

Kiki's Guide to Kashmir

Warwan Marwah Dacchan : The Last Inner Himalayan Wilderness

The Border River : Kishanganga aka Neelam

Karakorams in Ladakh

Amarnath Yatra 1898 Diwan Alim Chand