Ten Offbeat Locations in Kashmir
Ten Offbeat Locations in Kashmir
Kashmir, the Paradise on Earth as some call it hs been fortunate to have witnessed the arrival of Tourists in their thousands in the last few Years. Peak Seaon in the Summers when the Heat scorches the Plains hordes of Tourists rush North into the coller and rejuvenating climes of Kashmir.
Warwan Valley
n the Inner Himalayas lies a beautiful Region so remote that most people haven't even heard of it forget about going there. Kishtwar itself is remote and always under the shadow of Kashmir but this part of Kishtwar which lies next to Kashmir on one side and the Suru Valley of Ladakh on the other side is probably one of the last great wildernesses in the Inner Himalayas. This is the Warwan- Marwah - Dachchan belt lies along the Maru Wadwan River or as its also known Warwan / Marwah (Marev) / Marsu Dhar River along different parts of its course, which is a major tributary of the Chenab. These three sub parts of this Region all lie along the same River and offer a rare insight into how people lived maybe many years ago. Sandwiched between the Pir Panjals and the Great Himalayan Range this is a Region few outsiders have set foot.
https://travelthehimalayas.com/kiki/warwan-marwah-dacchan-the-last-inner-himalayan-wilderness
Gurez Valley
The beautiful Valleys of Gurez and Tulail are located within the folds of the Great Himalayan Range in the beautiful Valley created by the Kishanganga River as it runs down its course from its point of origin at the Kishansar Lake located in the Mountains above Sonamarg. The access to the Gurez Valley is via the Razdan Pass and the Road from Srinagar winds its way along the Wullar Lake and then from Bandipora the climb starts to Tragbal and further to the Razdan Pass.
The LOC runs through Gurez and you can see the Border fence at most places in the Gurez and the Tulial Valleys. On one end of the Gurez Valley lies the Village of Bagtore which is one of the last Villages on th Indian side of the LoC. On the other end of the Tulail Valley is the Kaobal Gali which connects this Valley with the Mushkoh Valley in the Drass Region of Ladakh. This used to be one of the main access points into Gurez / Tulail till 1947 after which this Road became off limits for Civilians with only the Army using it.
The Gurez and Tulail Valleys have a distinct Culture and the majority of the people here are Shina and speak the Shina language which is also spoken in the Gilgit Region acrosss the LoC. The Guez / Tulail Valleys are dotted with picturesque Villages with Houses made of Timber just like it has been done for Centuries.
ttps://travelthehimalayas.com/gurez
https://travelthehimalayas.com/kashmir-gurez-bangus
Chiranbal
Chiranbal is a mesmerizing meadow and a rising tourist destination nestled in the Kulgam district of Jammu and Kashmir, India.It's famed for its captivating landscape, boasting a vast expanse of emerald green meadows embraced by snow-capped peaks of the Brahma Sakli mountain range. The Zajinar River, a tributary of the Veshaw River, snakes its way through the meadow, adding to its charm.
Chiranbal offers a haven for nature enthusiasts. The meadows are a tapestry of vibrant greens, interlaced with wildflowers and pine forests. The sight of snow-clad mountains contrasting with the verdant meadows is truly breathtaking. Chiranbal comprises twin meadows - Upper Chiranbal (Haer Chiranbal) and Lower Chiranbal (Bon Chiranbal). Upper Chiranbal is placed at a slightly higher elevation and boasts a captivating panorama.
The ideal time to visit Chiranbal is during the summer months (June to September) when the weather is pleasant, and the meadows are adorned with wildflowers. While limited accommodation options exist in Chiranbal, most visitors opt for camping or guesthouses in nearby villages.
Chatpal
Chatpal is a picturesque village nestled amidst the mountains in the Shangus district of Kashmir, India. Unlike other tourist destinations in Kashmir, Chatpal offers a tranquil escape, untouched by commercialization. It's ideal for travelers seeking peace and serenity in nature's embrace.
Chatpal boasts breathtaking natural beauty. Lush green valleys, cascading streams, and snow-capped mountains in the distance create a postcard-perfect landscape. The fresh mountain air and the gentle murmur of streams will leave you rejuvenated.
The village offers a glimpse into the simple and traditional way of life in Kashmir. You can interact with the locals, learn about their culture, and savor delicious home-cooked meals.For adventure enthusiasts, Chatpal offers trekking trails that take you through meadows, forests, and to viewpoints offering stunning vistas of the valley.
Bangus Valley
https://travelthehimalayas.com/bangus
https://travelthehimalayas.com/cover-bangus
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Teethwal
Teethwal and Tangdhar are located in the Karnah Valley which lies across the Shamshabari Mountains and you cross over from the Sadhna or the Nastachun Pass which is probably one of the most fiercely guarded Mountain Passes in the Country. That's not surprising especially if you remember the Battle of Tithwal and the fact that Two Param Vir Chakras were conferred during the Battle.
Crossing over the Pass you descend into the beautiful Tangdhar Valley with its green verdant fields and Houses spread over a large area. And the people of this area are mostly Pahadi instead of Kashmiri. You first need permission to come till Tangdhar and then from the Tangdhar Police Station you need another permission to go to Tithwal which lies right at the LoC.
Tithwal itself is a peaceful Village by the River with POK right across the River with a Restaurant along the main Road from where People from the other side look down on the people on the other side.
https://travelthehimalayas.com/teethwal-tangdhar
Machil
The Machil Valley lies on the Northern fringes of the Kashmir Valley in the District of Kupwara. Its nestled around the Machil River and in geographical terms its stands North of the Lolab Valley across the Zamindar Gali, a Pass that needs to be crossed in order to get into the Machil Valley. It lies close to the Line of Control and as such the access is limited. Its nonetheless a beautiful area which is like a mix of Lolab Valley to the South and Gurez Valley to the East.
Machil or Matsil as its called was always a fascinating little place for people since they read about its beauty and remote location. Though the Civilian Authorities and the Army call it Machil or Machal (not to be confused with Machail of Paddar, Kishtwar) the locals call it Matsil. The name is derived from the Dardic word for Fish. Its said that once upon a time the Matsil River which drains the Valley was full of Fishes.
Machil Valley is accessed via the Z Gali or the Zamindar Gali over the Shamshabari Mountain Range. Its called the Zamindar Gali as in the olden times many people in Lolab used to have Land in Matsil where they used to grow Crops in the summertime. Over time some of these people settled here. Also as per the Gazzette of 1890 this area was often raided by Chilasis (yes from Chilas) so that also kept people away though the area is awash with Gujjars and Bakarwals who come here with their livestock for the rich pasturage the Valley offers in the Summers.
https://travelthehimalayas.com/machil
Tosa Maidan
Tosa Maidan is a meadow located in the Kashmir Valley of India, known for its scenic beauty and historical significance. The name translates to "King of Meadows" and aptly describes the vastness of the meadow, sprawling over 65 square kilometers.
Tosa Maidan is situated at an altitude of 10,395 feet (3,167 meters) in the Pir Panjal range of the Himalayas. It's surrounded by dense forests, offering a tranquil escape amidst nature. In summer, the meadows transform into a vibrant green carpet, dotted with wildflowers and the camps of Gujjar shepherds grazing their sheep.
Keran
Keran is a Village which lies divided right on the Line of Control with one part in India in the Kupwara District of Jammu and Kashmir and the other part in Pakistan Occupied Kashmir. And the River Kishanganga (called Neelum by the other side) runs through it. Keran is located across the Shamshabari Mountains which one has to cross across the Firkiyan / Firkin / Pharkiyan Gali. At Keran one can view life across the LOC and the Resorts built on th other side of the Line of Control.
Keran : The Village of Keran is said to have been established by Raja Bahadur Khan in the tenth Century. Also located on the banks of the Kishenganaga River, Keran enjoys a majestic view. To reach Keran Valley one has to Pass through the Firkin Gali. It is 37 kilometers towards West from Kupwara. 89 kilometers from Kralpora and 118 kilometers from the state Capital Srinagar. One the way to Keran the other places of interest are Milyal, Raja Ram Mountains, Firkin Village, Kralpora, Trehgam and the Kheerbhawani Temple at Tikker, Kupwara.
From the Firkin Gali a Road link connects it with the Sadhna Top and is known for its mesmerizing and enchanting beauty on both sides of Kashmir. On the way one can witness the lush Green forests, Meadows, Streams and also the Ancient Architecture.
Uri
Uri is a town which is located along the Historic Cart Road along the Jehlum which once connected Srinagar and the Kashmir Valley with Rawalpindi and the Punjab in the Pre Partition Days. However since the Partition came about and following the first Indo Pak War in 1947/48 Uri became the last major Town on the Indian side and the LoC lies beyond Uri.
Uri is now a sprawling and bustling Border Town and with the opening of Tourism spots in and around Uri it stands to attract some Tourists out of the bulk that descends upon Kashmir every year especially in the Summer Months.
The main attraction is the Aman Setu at the Kaman Post, which is a Bridge which connects both sides of the LoC. You can also see the former Indo Pak Border Trade Center at Salamabad which now lies deserted. There are other ares which can be visited around Uri as well.
https://travelthehimalayas.com/kiki/2021/12/14/the-road-to-uri
The Nanga Parbat from the Kashmir Valley
Nanga Parbat from Gulmarg
The Nanga Parbat Massif is the Western anchor of the Great Himalayan Range which stretches from here right upto the Namche Barwa in the East. At 8126 m its also the Ninth Highest Mountain on the Planet and for many Years in the 1800s when Western Explorers first came across this Mountain was considered the highest Mountain in the World. Its local name is Diamer or Deo Mir. One wouldnt blame them due to the sheer perpendiculairty of the Rupal face of the Mountain. The Nanga Parbat Massif consists of a number of different Peaks with the Nanga Parbat being the Highest.
The Peaks of the Nanga Parbat Massif marked
Of course due to the play of History and Politics the Nanga Parbat lies in a part of the former state of Jammu and Kashmir which is under illegal occupation by our Neighbourso we cant really get close to the Peak. But thank God for small mercies that we still have places in the Kashmir Valley from where we can view the "Killer Mountain", named so because of the sheer difficulty it presents to Mountaineers that try and climb this Peak as well as a reference to the great number of People who have lost thier lives while trying to climb this Mountains. Anyways mentioning below a few places in the Kashmir Valley from where one can view the Nanga Parbat.
The Nanga Parbat from the Razdan Pass
First and foremost probably the best view of the complete Massiff is from Gulmarg. Gulmarg is a Meadow in the Pir Panjals at the South Western end of the Valley and the Great Himalayan Range is right across the Valley. Infact technically the Nanga Parbat should be visible from other Meadows in the Pir Panjal. In Gulmarg there is a point called the Nanga Parbat viewpoint. Of course if you move higher to Kongdori or Khilanmarg the view just gets better. Actually even from points below Gulmarg like Kunzer for example you can see the Nanga Parbat on a clear day. Ive even seen an captured the Nanga Parbat while coming down from Tosa Maidan.
The Nanga Parbat on the Horizon while around Gogaldhara
Another point which has great views of the Nanga Parbat is the Zamindar Gali or the Z Gali which connects th rest of the Valley to the Machil area. Actually the Nanga Parbat is visible from all high Points on the Shamshabari Mountains as beyond these Mountains it is by far the most formidable Mountain and dwarfs the entire Geography around. On the Zamindar Gali alos there is a Nanga Parbat view point as well as an observation Tower built for the same.
Hidden in the clouds as seen from the Shamshabari Mountains
Then another place from where you can see the Nanga Parbat is the Razdan Top which connects Kashmir with Gurez. Though only the tip of the Mountain is visible and very few people are aware of the exact point where its visible from. Infact the first time I had gone looking for the Nanga Parbat from the Razdaan Pass I had to use all my Knowledge of Mountain Geography and ofcourse an app helped but still took us sometime to get a view of the Giant. However most peopl who go to Gurez miss this great sight because someone hsto point it out to you otherwise you will just miss it.
A Pic taken from a Flight
Last but not the least you can catch a glimpse of this Giant when your Flight takes off from Srinagar and the day is clear and you know which side to look. Again it just appears for a moment before the Aircraft usually takes a turn towards the opposite direction.
From Gulmarg
Hopefully on your next Trip to Kashmir you would be able to get a Glimpse of this outstanding Mountain.
The Elusive Kaobal Gali
The Kaobal Gali stands at an Elevation of 4167 metres (app 13600 ft) on the main Great Himalayan Range has traditionally connected the Tulail and Gurez Valleys with the Mushkoh Valley in the Drass Region. Interestingly people on both sides of the Pass are Shina and speak Shina language just like their fellow Dardic Shina people in Gilgit. This is a peculiarity as usually when you cross a Pass on the Great Himalayan Range the Culture Language and People change.
The Kaobal Gali with the Kaobal Sar or Draupadi Kund at its foot
The Great Himalayan Range is a formidable barrier with its monumental Mountains but Humans for centuries have endured to cross this Range to go beyond this Range into Ladakh and Tibet and beyond into Central Asia.
In the Western Himalayas there were a series of Passes which were used the cross this Great Mountain barrier with the main ones starting from the East were the Parang La which connected Ladakh with Spiti, the Baralacha La which connected Lahaul with Ladakh, the Sinku La which connected Lahaul with Zanskar in Ladakh, and then a series of difficult Passes which connected Padar in Kishtwar with Zanskar in Ladakh like the Umas La, Poat La and Hagshu La.
The Kaobal Glacier
Moving further West we again had a series of Passes which connected Warwan in like the Bhotkol Pass / Lonvilad Gali. And then we had the one of the lowest but one of the most notorious Passes over the Great Himalayan Range, the Zoji La. And then the last one is mostly unknown Kaobal Gali which connected the Tulail Valley in Gurez with the Mushkoh Valley in Drass in Ladakh.
The Pass stands at an Elevation of 4167 metres (app 13600 ft) on the main Great Himalayan Range has traditionally connected the Tulail and Gurez Valleys with the Mushkoh Valley in the Drass Region. Interestingly people on both sides of the Pass are Shina and speak Shina language just like their fellow Dardic Shina people in Gilgit. This is a peculiarity as usually when you cross a Pass on the Great Himalayan Range the Culture Language and People change.
Closer View of the Kaobal Sar also known as the Draupadi Kund
Another factor which makes this Pass different in todays context is that it lies at a very sensitive position along the Line of Control and on one side is the Mushkoh Valley which had seen a lot of Military action during the Kargil War. As a result of this Pass is strictly off limits to all Civilians and till date very few Civilians have been allowed to visit this Pass and recently we were among the lucky few who have got access to the Pass.
The Pass itself is set in a spectacular location. The Kaobal Peak and the Kaobal Glacier loom over the Pass and there is a beautiful Alpine Lake at the foot of the Pass called the Kaobal Sar but also more commonly referred to as the Draupadi Kund. The setting of the Lake is so beautiful that you cant help but give it a celestial connection. On one side are the Greens of Tulail and on the other side are the Trans Himalayan browns of Mushkoh in Drass. The Contrast is quite stunning.
The Tulail Gurez side of the Pass
The Pass also marks the Border between the Union Territory of Jammu and Kashmir and Ladakh. At the time we were there we had gone from the Tulail side and had initially planned to descend the other side of the Pass into Drass but that was not to be as there was a Landslide on the other side and the Road was shut for all kinds of traffic. Also the Road onwards from Chakwali Village which is the last Village on the Jammu and Kashmir side is extremely Rough and can only be attempted in clear Weather with proper 4x4 Vehicle.
The Drass side of the Pass
There was a recent Report that the Government is planning to open the Road from Gurez to Drass via Kaobal Gali to Tourists at some point in future. So hopefully one day a controlled number of Tourists will get access to this absolute Gem of the Himalayas.
Gurez and Tulail : Then and Now
Gurez is a Valley in the north of Kashmir. It stretches from a short way above Gurais Fort to below Sirdari. The main road, leading from Kashmir into the Valley, crosses the Rajdihgan Pass ; the distance from Bandipura, at the head of the Wular lake, to Kanzalwan, on the left bank of the Kishanganga, being about 25 miles, which is usually divided into three stages. The entrance to the valley is exceedingly picturesque, as the river comes dashing along through a rich meadow, partly covered with lindens, walnut, mud willow trees, while the mountains on either side present nothing but a succession of most abrupt precipices, end alpine ledges, covered with fir trees. It is nowhere above a mile in width, and is surrounded on every side by lofty peaks, chiefly of mountain limestone, rising far above the limit of forest which covers their lower slopes.
The Habba Khatoon Peak with the Kishanganga River in the foreground
Gurais / Gurez
Notes from the Gazetteer of Kashmir and Ladakh of 1890 on Gurez (which was also referred to as Gurais or Gurys) and Tulail (referred to as Tilail or Tlyl ). The Gazetteer was a treasure of vital information on all parts of Kashmir and Ladakh and it also carried detailed Route Maps and Details in the Mountains. Presenting the Notes on both Gurez and Tulail and some Explanatory addendums.
Gurez is a Valley in the north of Kashmir. It stretches from a short way above Gurais Fort to below Sirdari. The main road, leading from Kashmir into the Valley, crosses the Rajdihgan Pass ; the distance from Bandipura, at the head of the Wular lake, to Kanzalwan, on the left bank of the Kishanganga, being about 25 miles, which is usually divided into three stages. The entrance to the valley is exceedingly picturesque, as the river comes dashing along through a rich meadow, partly covered with lindens, walnut, mud willow trees, while the mountains on either side present nothing but a succession of most abrupt precipices, end alpine ledges, covered with fir trees. It is nowhere above a mile in width, and is surrounded on every side by lofty peaks, chiefly of mountain limestone, rising far above the limit of forest which covers their lower slopes.
As the Note states Gurez is located North of the main Kashmir Valley across the Razdan Pass and the Journey now from Srinagar to Dawar which is the main Village in Gurez takes around 6 to 7 Hours. There are a number of Check Posts that you need to Pass while going into Gurez and the details of all Visitors are duly Noted as its a Militarily sensitive Region as the present Line of Control between India and Pakistan runs the Region. The Gurez Valley also now stands divided between the two Countries.
The View of the Mountains North from the Razdan Pass
The south-east end of the valley ie occupied by a superb peak of mountain limestone, rising nearly 5,000 feet above it, and dividing the Tilail valley from that of Gurais; to the north of this mountain is an immense mass of alluvium, which must once have up the entrance to the north-east end of the valley, and through which the Burzil stream .appears to have worn its way. This part of the valley, which lies north-east and south-west, is very narrow at its lower end. It is bounded by precipitous mountains, which are somewhat scantily fringed with forest, the greater lying on the left bank of the stream.
The Peak being referred to in the above Note is the iconic Habba Khatoon Peak which stands over the Village of Dawar in an almost perfect Pyramidical form. The Peak is named after the famous Poetess Habba Khatoon who was from the area and who’s Lovestory with the Chak Sultan of Kashmir is the stuff legends are made of. The Peak lies at the Junction of the Kishenganga with the Burzil stream. Also the extent of Gurez Valley is till the Peak and after the Peak moving along the Kishenganga the Tulail Valley starts.
The Kishanganga Reservoir
The South portion of the valley about the Fort is wide and level, offers a beautiful prospect, the mountains on the South side being clothed with forest, while to the north they rise in precipitous masses of Grey rock with here and there a few pine trees. The scenery in the west portion of the valley between Kanzalwan and Sirdari is likewise very pleasing,the river winding amid dense forests of pine and cedar.
The elevation is between 7,000 and 8,200 feet.
Taking a leftern Route from Kanzalwan takes one towards the Southern part of the Gurez valley which traditionally extended till the Village of Sirdari which now lies on the other side of the Line of Control. Now the last Village on the Indian side is Bagtore and after that the Kishanganga crosses over the Line of Control.
The Village of Dawar, the main Village of the Gurez Valley
The road from Srinagar crosses the Kishanganga at Kanzalwan by a single span bridge about 6 feet wide. The river-bed here is about 70 yards broad. The road lies uniformly along the right bank of the River. It is repaired annually by the Maharajas troop, preparatory to the dispatch of commissariat stores for the frontier garrisons, and is consequently a good and, for the most part, level road, quite practicable for laden animals and mountain artillery.
A regular postal establishment is maintained on this road, but the intervals at which the mails are dispatched are uncertain; during the summer months the dak-runners are stationed in pairs, at 2 kos apart, but in winter, parties of eight or ten men are located in stages of 5 kos; the line is worked as high up as the village of Dudgay by Gurais men, and beyond that point by Tilailis. These men are said to be paid at the rate of R6 (Kashmir currency) per mensem. The path from Gurais to Tilail crosses the Burzil stream by a bridge at, or above, the village of Tsenial and ascends the mountain, the distance from the fort to the Tilail valley being about 13 miles. From Kanzalwan, in a westerly direction, the path lies at first on the left bank of the Kishan' Ganga, crossing the river by the bridge between Bakthaor and Thaobut ; it then lies along the right bank as far as Sirdari, after passing which village it becomes impracticable,
Now the Road is well Motorable all the way to the extreme end of Tulail on the other side. In the earlier days begore the era of Motorcars there was a System of Dak Runners who used to deliver letters up and down between Gurais and the main Kashmir Valley. These Dak Runners were placed at regular intervals and their Job was just that, Run to the next Dak Runner station and deliver the Messages.
The Kishanganga River flowing through the Gorge which separates Gurez from Tulail
The inhabitants dress differently to the Kashmiris ; they invariably wear very loose puttu pajamas coming down as low as the calf, and a kamarband outside the choga or coat. They also wear the Dard cap in place of a pagri. In the village of Gurais itself there is a mixture of Dards and Kashmiris.
The inhabitants of Gurez are mostly Shina people and speak primarily the Shina language though many of them due to the linkage with Kashmir are fluent in Kashmiri as well. Nowadays their dressing is no different than in Kashmir.
Their houses are built of unhewn timber, dovetailed at the corner, the interstices being plastered with mud ; they are built as close as possible to each other for the sake of warmth and communication, and are usually disposed in squares facing inwards, a small aperture serving the triple purpose of door, window, and chimney. In some of the villages in the western portion of the valley, they are beginning to build houses of a more commodious pattern, copied from those in Kashmir. There is a great want of trees and shade about the villages, which is explained by the statement that the heavy load of snow by which they are weighed down in winter destroys them. The villages in the Gurais valley are Walpur (twenty-five houses), Khandial (thirty houses), Murkot (forty houses) and Digar (twenty eight Houses)
There are still many Houses made in the traditional way out of timber though slowly and steadily these are being replaced with Concrete and Brick structures with Tin Roofing as is prevalent in most of the Kashmir Valley.
The First Views of the Gurez Valley after descending from the Razdan Pass
The climate of the Gurais Valley ia very rigorous, and the harvest scanty and uncertain; seasons of dearth, caused either by want of sun or rain are not infrequent, but flocks and herds abound, and from their profits the inhabitants are enabled to import grain in seasons of scarcity. '
Gurez has a Cold Climate and experiences heavy Snowfall in the Winters as a result of which it remains cut-off for 4 to 5 Months every year from the main Kashmir Valley. Also many of the local Gurezis now have Property in Bandipura and other parts of the Kashmir Valley and they prefer spending the Winters in these places instead of being stuck in Gurez. It needs to be Noted that Gurez has no regular Electricity supply though they get some Supply in the Evenings through Army run Gensets.
The only crops are millet, buckwheat, and peas; and of these there is but one harvest in the year. Besides willows, a few crab-apples and pears are met with, and in the south and west portions of the valley walnut trees of scant dimensions are found, but the fruit is said to be hard and small; in the west also strawberries are usually plentiful, and raspberries and mild currants are not uncommon. The aromatic plant called burrish is found in great quantities on the slopes of the mountains on the north side of the valley. It is of a whitish-green colour, very similar in appearance to the tetwan or wormwood, but rather larger; its roots, ,which are large and fibrous, are extensively used as fuel at elevations where wood is not procurable. Rice will not ripen. Very good ponies can be obtained at Gurais. The valley affords splendid pasturage.
The Burzil River which joins the Kishanganga at the foot of the Habba Khatoon Peak
Gurais was originally governed by a Nawab, tributary to the Gaor Aman Rajas of Gilgit ; the present Nawab, by name Malik Wafadar, is the eighth or ninth of his family, who has borne the title in regular succession. His father, Malik Dilawar, having been invited to Srinagar by Shaikh Ghulam Maihidhin, the Governor under the Sikh rule, was treacherously thrown into prison, from which be managed to effect his escape after a captivity of three years; he retired to the mountains north of the Kishanganga river, where he collected his followers, but the Sikh force opposed to him being vastly superior in numbers, he thought it prudent when the flood subsided, rendering the passage of the river feasible, to withdraw to Gilgit, where he was eventually treacherously murdered. His son the present Nawab, was, at the time the events occurred, a hostage in the hands of Colonel Mia Singh, who had succeeded to the governorship of Kashmir. On attaining man's estate he took service under the Maharaja, and is now Thanadar of the Valley his forefathers ruled. Malik Wafadar is an intelligent man of pleasing address; he has a son, Baktawar, a child of about five years of age.
Gurais is, most probably, the Urasa of the Raja Taringini.
During the winter months the road from Kanzalwan to Gurais is extremely difficult and dangerous for the first 4 miles, as the sides of the mountain along the face of which the road is made are extremely steep, and the Snow lying at the slope of the ground makes the difficulty of cutting a track through it very.great.
(Vigne-Drew-Barrow-Manifold.)
Tilail / Tulail
TILAIL-Lat. 34' 30' and 34' 35'. Long. 75' and 7S0 %Of. Elev. The name of a long and narrow valley lying to the north-east of Kashmir, which is traversed by the incipient Kishan Ganga.
It in nowhere more than a mile in width, and is encompassed by lofty mountains which exhibit a like peculiarity to those in Kashmir, inasmuch as the elopes having a southern aspect, are uniformly bare of forest, and are here clothed with grass or masses of prangos, while on the south side there is no want of timber, except towards the west end of the valley between the villages of Purana Tilail and Zergay, where the mountains are too precipitous to give footing to any vegetation, excepting here and there a few pine trees which cling to the bare face of the rock.
The general appearance of the valley presenta a great contrast to Kashmir, as the sylvan beauty of the earthly paradise is entirely wanting, and the mountains that enclose it are not bold enough in outline to compensate by the wild grandeur of their scenery.
In the upper portion of the valley the fall is considerable, and the Kishan Ganga flows a turbid and impetuous torrent, which finds an exit at the western extremity through a narrow gorge which only gives passage to the river; and the main path traversing the valley, which has hitherto followed the right bank of the stream, crosses the range of mountains to the north-west into Gurais.
This path forms the high road between Gurais and Dras, and is that by which the Tilail valley is usually entered. It may, however, be reached more directly from Kashmir by a path which ascends from Wangat to Gangarbal ; there are also two roads from Sonamarg in the Sind valley ; the one known as the Nikka Nai road lies by the Krishun Sar and Vishun Sar lakes, the other, called Bara Nai, follows the course of the Raman stream. From the Tilail valley, the Shingo river and Deosai plains, and Skardu, may, it is said, be reached at certain seasons of the year by a path which ascends the Grati Nar.
Traditional Wooden Structures in Gurez and Tulail
The inhabitants of this valley differ somewhat in appearance from those of Kashmir, their features approaching the Mongolian type. Their dress is much the same, except that the women wear an exaggerated copy of the common red head-dress. The Dard language is universally spoken.
The Valley is sparsely populated; the houses are all huddled together in the village or ranged in a square enclosing a courtyard, in which the cattle are herded ; this disposition is adopted for the sake of warmth and communication during the long and rigorous winter. The dwellings, which are frequently double-storied, are constructed of unhewn timbers dovetailed at the corners, and having the interstices plastered with mud. They have no chimneys, and are all very dirty. The villages, with scarcely an exception, are entirely bare of trees, and have but little vegetation of any description about them ; barley, peas, trumba, and pinga are the only products of theValley ; rice is of course unknown at this elevation.
The harvests are not abundant, and are scarcely in excess of the requirements of the inhabitants.
It is the custom to bury the grain in caches ; this appears to be a remnant of the precautions which were taken during the old marauding days, but the habit is still adhered to, owing to the want of proper vessels to contain the grain, and of space in the homes. in which to store it, The holes are usually constructed in some dry spot near the village ; they are called dis in the Dard language and sus in Kashmiri. The grain is carefully fully wrapped in birch bark before being consigned to these receptacles; the hole is then filled in with stones, above which a layer of earth is spread. When well dried and securely packed, the grain is said to keep good for six months, but it is not usually preserved so long.
The inhabitants of Tilail seem to be extremely fond of fruit, of which the only indigenous varieties are the strawberry and a few wild para, but a great deal is imported from Skardu, principally dried mulberries of a very inferior description, and a small apricot called but but sair by the Kashmiris; for these luxuries the people barter the woollen stuffs they have manufactured during the winter. Ths mild flowers and grasses common to the British Isles are found throughout the valley, and roses in Tilail are scarcely less abundant than those of Kashmir, exhibiting, if anything, more beautiful tints.
Though extremely poor, the Tilailis pay 60 rupees (chilki) at their marriages ; this sum is paid by the bridegroom to the bride's family either before or on the day of marriage. Flocks of sheep constitute their most valuable possession ; the Kashrniri butchers buy much of their meat in this valley, paying for the animals at the rate of 14 or 15 rupee (chilki) a kharwa taken at an estimation.
The government tax is calculated at half the produce of the lands and is paid either in money or in kind. Vigne states that when Tillail was subject to Abmad Shah, the Gyalpo or Raja of Skardu, he, instead taking a tribute of money, contented himself with receiving annually a present of a sheep and a coil of rope from each house.
The government likewise levies a duty of an anna in the rupee on all articles exported from Tilail to Kashmir.
The administration of justice is provided for in the following manner: Small cases are decided by the village mokaddams ; more important matters are referred to the thanadar, who resides in Badgam, from whom appeal lies to the governor of Kashmir.
It is said that on all suits having a pecuniary value the Government levies a duty equal to one-fourth of the value in dispute.
Kiki's Guide to Kashmir
A Rough Guide for People planning to visit the Kashmir Valley. And notes on the History, Culture and most importantly the Geography of the Region. And taking you beyond the normal Tourist Hotspots into more Offbeat and even unheard of places in Kashmir.
A truly fascinating place which gives people the visions of beauty and is referred to as the “Paradise on Earth”. The name is enough to conjure up images of snow covered mountain peaks, valleys with a shroud of flowers, enchanting Mountain streams and beautiful lakes. Well the geography and the de facto political boundaries of the state are a bit more complicated. Here I try to explain the complexities of what used to be the Riyasat-e-Jammu and Kashmir in 1947. I will use that as the reference point and as a geographical unit will refer to it as RJ&K.
Moving beyond the territorial claims that individual countries have on RJK and avoiding the political baggage that comes with the veracity of each claim I will just mention the geography and the political status as it exists as on date. Based upon the actual territory that is being held by the various countries which have a claim on RJK. That being said, I would like to emphasise that the purpose of this article is to educate travellers and mountain lovers about where they can go and where they cannot, which is governed basically by their nationality and the relationships which exist between individual countries.
Offbeat / LOC Locations in Kashmir
RJK consisted basically of the regions Jammu, Kashmir, Ladakh, Baltistan, Gilgit and the uninhabited Aksai Chin. I would first comment on the areas of RJ&K that are under de facto Indian control which I will call J&K. J&K broadly consists of the regions of Jammu, Kashmir and it used to include Ladakh. Until they were divided into two separate Union Territories, one J&K and one Ladakh. However there are little parts of the former Baltistan that exist in J&K like the Kargil district and even Gilgit like Gurez. Jammu consists of the Jammu district as well areas along the border like Poonch, Rajouri, Udhampur and Doda. The beautiful Valleys of Bhadarwah and Kishtwar are also a part of the Jammu region. Jammu has its share of mountains especially the rugged region of Kishtwar but they are largely unknown and away from the glare of the outside world. I will cover the Jammu region in detail in a later post but for now we move on to Kashmir.
From Jammu we move onto the fabled “Vale of Cashmere” as it was called. Technically the Valley starts once you cross the Banihal Pass/ Banihal Tunnel (Pir Panjals) on the highway or when you cross the Pir Ki Gali Pass (Pir Panjals) on the Mughal Road when coming from the South. The original road to the Valley via Muzuffarabad is no longer in use due to political reasons. Also you can alternately cross the Sinthan or the Margan Pass to go to Kishtwar or Warvan. Up North the Zoji La marks the exit from the Valley while to the North West the Razdhan Pass would also entail technically leaving Kashmir Valley but those areas of Gurez are still considered a part of the Kashmir region.
In the geological past the Valley was once a lake called the Satsar Lake which drained eventually due to various factors. However there is still a large diversity of of Lakes from the largest Wular Lake to the most famous Dal Lake to thousands of high altitude lakes nestled within the mountains which are an attractive trekking destination. The Kashmir Valley is bound on the South and South West by the Pir Panjals. And on the North and North East by the Great Himalaya and the Zanskar Range. It is by far the largest Valley in the complex Greater Himalaya Mountain system and certainly the most celebrated one.
Kashmir Valley is actually the Jehlum Valley and the Jehlum is the main drainage system for the Valley. The traditional source of the the Jehlum is considered to be the springs at Verinag. However many attribute the source to the Konsarnag Lake and even the Sheshnag Lake. The Lidder and Sindh are two main well known tributaries of the Jehlum. The Lidder has two main sources the Kolahoi Glacier for the West Lidder and the Sheshnag Lake for the East Lidder. The Sindh River rises from the Machoi Glacier near the Amarnath Caves.
A Faith Map of Jammu and Kashmir by Drew in 1875
Srinagar is the capital city of J&K and lies on the banks of the Jehlum River and it also includes the famous Dal Lake and the Nigeen Lake. The city is well know for the various Gardens laid out by the Mughals as well as the new fangled Tulip Garden which is a hit with the tourists. The Srinagar city has its own range of mountains called the Zabarwan Mountains which is a sub range of the Zanskar Range. The home of the endangered Hangul, the Dachigam National Park also lies on the edge of the City.
There are various other places of tourist interest in the Valley including Gulmarg, Pahalgam, Sonamarg, Yusmarg, Kokernag, Verinag, Achabal, Daksum, Parang and lately places like Doodpathri etc. My personal favorite has always been Gulmarg probably because I have sent a lot time here while growing up. However recently it is is over crowded and over priced. Gulmarg is a great Winter destination due to the humongous amount of Snows it gets.
The Wadwan Marwah River
The lesser know place which has fascinated me the most has been the Warwan Valley which could only be reached by trekking in the good old days. I happened to spend 5 nights in this enchanting Lost World. Being born in Kashmir and having familial connections in Himachal I have seen a lot of mountains but Warwan was special. Nowadays there is a road which goes over the Margan Pass and takes you to Inshin, the main village in Warwan. As of now I am not aware of how further this road goes. Technically though Warwan is a part of Kishtwar and hence a part of the Jammu Region.
A special note on Warwan Valley : The people of this region are by some accounts the closest that come to the ancient Kashmiris. Their language is the purest form of Kashmiri. The Warwan River runs through this enchanting Valley. This Valley runs parallel to the Lidder Valley and is around 3 to 4 km wide and 30 km long at an average elevation of 8000 to 9000 ft. At a place called Sukhnis the Valley transforms into a Gorge and on reaching Rangmarg you have two options.Taking a left leads you to the Gulol Pass crossing which you can descend into Sheshnag. Going straight takes you to the Botkol Pass going over which you come down to Panikher in the Suru Valley (Zanskar). This is the same route taken by the indomitable General Zorawar Singh when he launched his expeditions into Ladakh. Interestingly there was a Government proposal to make a road from Pahalgam to Panikhar which would technically be 45 kms but would provide unparalleled beauty as for almost half that route would under be the shadow of the fabled Nun Kun Massif. A point of special note is that Warwan as such is not in proximity of the Line of Control as compared with Gurez or Lolab.
The Hazratbal Shrine by the Dal Lake and the Pir Panjals in the back ground
On the same axis lies the Sinthan Pass which connects Kashmir with Kishtwar proper. This scenic Pass is now becoming a destination as more and more Tourists go there to experience Snow which lasts well into June usually on the Sinthan Pass. One can also cross the Pass and go into Kishtwar and there are many interesting places there as well. Totally Offbeat.
Another region which sees a lot of tourist interest in the Gurez area. Gurez is actually a part of the Gilgit region but is counted in the Kashmir Valley. The people in Gurez speak Shina and were always more aligned with fellow Shina speakers in Gilgit rather than with Kashmir. The road to Gurez leads one over the Razdhan Pass and then you enter the enchanting land called Gurez. There is a road which goes from Gurez towards Kargil but as of now it is a military road but earlier that used to be one of the main Roads into Gurez. The fact that it is a part of Baltistan is borne out by the fact that the locals speak the Shina language, which is quite prevalent in Baltistan instead of Kashmiri.
The Kalaroos Cave in Loalb Valley
And then there is the Lolab Valley and the Bangus Valley (both the Bod Bangus and the Lokut Bangus) in North Kashmir district of Kupwara. These are again very scenic areas but the movement of civilians especially tourists was severely restricted due to the proximity to the Line of Control. However now the restrictions have eased up and many Tourists now visit Bangus. Bangus is the largest Alpine meadow in Kashmir and covers a large area. The other famous Meadows in Kashmir like Gulmarg, Doodhpathri, Yusmarg and Tosa Maidan lie in the Pir Panjals and South and Western Kashmir but Bangus abuts the Great Himalayan Range itself. A Motorable Road has already been built to Bangus itself and Vehicles with 4x4 and Good Ground Clearance can already get t Bangus and even normal Passenger Cars would be able to get there once the Road is black topped.
And now for the first time the Government is trying to promote Tourism to the areas which lie right on the LOC along the Kishenganga. This includes places such as Machil, Keran, Tangdhar and Titwal. Ours is the first Travel Company which has started limited Tours to these places for Adventurous clients.
The Kishanganga River flowing through the Gurez Valley.
Weather
Kashmir has a Continental Weather with a proper 4 Seasons. In the Winters it can get quite Cold and all areas of the Valley get Snow in the Winters. Places like Gulmarg get a huge amount of Snow and that's why it's everyone’s favourite Winter Destination. Spring is probably the best Season in Kashmir with pleasant Days and Chilly Evenings. The Summer starts around mid June and July and in recent years it has started to get really Hot in Summers. Autumn again the Days become pleasant and the Nights Chilly.
Transport
The biggest advantage in Kashmir is the International Airport in Srinagar and its connected directly / indirectly with all Major cities. The Flight from Delhi to Srinagar is just One and Half Hours. Of course there is the Highway as well its on the verge of being connected by Rail in a couple of years.
Places to Stay
Kashmir offers a large Range of Accommodations especially in the areas more popular with the Tourists. From Budget Hostels to Five Star plus accommodations. Plus there are Homestays which offer a unique Cultural Experience as well. You can also take a look at Our Kashmir Boutique Stays in Srinagar and Pahalgam. And soon we will be in Gulmarg as well.
Tours
Here are some of the Signature Tours we run in Kashmir for people interested an authentic Kashmir Experience. People coming for the first / second Time can opt for our Kashmir Boutique Experience. People who have been to Kashmir before but now want to Experience the Offbeat side of Kashmir can go for our Kashmir Offbeat : Gurez, Lolab and Bangus Tour. And for People who want edge of the Seat Adventures we can recommend our Kashmir Edge Border Tour.
We can Customize as well and Organize Trips to all these Places. Connect with us on Whats App Messenger on 98712 92288 for a Great Kashmir Experience.
The Border River : Kishanganga aka Neelam
The Kishanganga is the main River flowing through the enchanting Gurez Valley rising in the Kishansar Lake (which is a part of the Group of Lakes commonly referred to as the Great Lakes) and flowing through some great Mountain scenery until its confluence with the Jhelum around Muzaffarabad in Pakistani held Kashmir. The River was renamed as the Neelam in Pakistan in the 1950s. Old Maps and Books still refer to it as the Kishanganga.
The Kishanganga is the main River flowing through the enchanting Gurez Valley rising in the Kishansar Lake (which is a part of the Group of Lakes commonly referred to as the Great Lakes) and flowing through some great Mountain scenery until its confluence with the Jhelum around Muzaffarabad in Pakistani held Kashmir. The River was renamed as the Neelam in Pakistan in the 1950s. Old Maps and Books still refer to it as the Kishanganga.
The River as mentioned originates at the Kishansar Lake which lies in the Mountains above Sonamarg and is joined by the Raman Sind and then it flows in a Western direction and enters Gurez where its joined by the Burzil Nallah which comes down from the direction of the Burzil Pass which was the Pass on the Trade Route which connected Kashmir with Astore and Gilgit. Of course now the Route is not used anymore and Burzil Pass is on the Pakistani side.
The Gazzetteer describes the tributaries as such : The principal tributaries of the KishanGanga are the Raman Sind has been mentioned as joining it from the south side of the Tilai Valley; the Burzil stream, which flows through the north~east portion of the Gurais Valley ; the Matsil a considerable stream which drains the mountainous tract to the North of the Kashmir valley ; the Kel dara, which drains a similar district on the right bank of the Kishanganga, South of Chilas and Astor, and flows in nearly opposite the Matsil. The natives describe the Kel river as running into KishanGanga at right angles, with such force and volume as to arrest its course, causing a large whirlpool just above the junction. At. the north end of the' Drawar district, the Kishanganga is joined on the right bank, nearly opposite to Sharidi, by the Kankatori or Samgan, and in the middle of the same district, also on the right bank, by the Jagran river, receiving the united waters of the Shamahabari and Kazi Nag streams, the drainage of the Karnao valley, by its left bank at the village of Tetwal. Besides the tributaries above enumerated, the Kishanganga receives contributions from innumerable streams and torrents.
Sadly today the beautiful Geography stands defeated by the vagaries of Politics. Of its app 250 kms length, app 50 kms lies on the Indian side while the rest is either the border or on the other side. The Valleys on both sides of the River are incredibly beautiful but in most places you can see across the River but never can go across. It is the border River but in Geographic terms as well the Kishanganga River marked the limit of the Kashmir Valley in a broader sense. Its point of origin is not very far from the point Kashmir ends and Ladakh starts. And the point where it merges with the Jehlum around Muzzafarabad is the edge of Kashmir where traditionally Kashmir meets the Potohar Plateau and the Plains of the Punjab.
Historically as well the Kishanganga has made its mark. The area drained by the Kishanganga was referred to as the Shardadesh which is in reference to ancient Sharda University or the Sharda Peeth which was a great centre of Learning and one of the most revered places for the Kashmiris. It was referred to as one of the most revered Holy Places in India by Al Beruni as well.
Also it was along the Kishanganga ran the Trade Route which connected Kashmir with Astore and Gilgit. One had to cross the Rajdhanigan Pass or the Tragbal Pass to enter Gurez. Then you went upstream the Kishanganga to the Tulail Valley where you followed the Burzil Nallah up the Burzil Pass and where there on descend into Astore and further into Gilgit. There would have been few Trade Routes which could have rivalled this one in beauty. Of course many like to give it the fancy moniker of “Silk Route” but then any Route which crossed the Himalayas and connected with Central Asia and in turn with China was called the Silk Route. But after the events of 1947 Trade along this Route stopped and the Route lost its relevance.
From the Indian side you can of course see the River in its glory in Gurez and in the areas along the LoC like Karnah, Titwal and Machil. These areas have recently been opened for Tourists starting with Gurez where a few Tourists are going nowadays though the Government is now promoting Tourism in other areas as well along this River.
And the Indian Government is building a Dam on the Kishanganga and work is already underway and it has created a large Reservoir near the Village of Dawar and the waters would be diverted via a Tunnel towards Bandipora and into the Wular Lake. Of course the Volume of water now after the Dam will become lesser and the difference between the River before the Dawar and after the Dam is apparent.
The Border River now controversially stands tamed.
Gurez to Drass
A Road which connects Gurez to Drass via the Kaobal Gali. This provides an alternate Route from Kashmir into Ladakh via Gurez instead of the Zoji La but as of now the Road remains Off limits for Civilians and only Military Vehicles are allowed. Presenting some exclusive pics of this beautiful Road and hoping one day its opened for normal Civilian traffic.
Gurez to Drass Road
The Road from Gurez to Drass
There happens to be Road which connects Gurez with Drass over the Kaobal Gali, offering an alternative to the Zoji La but this Road as of now is strictly Off limits for civilians and serves the Military. Here are some exclusive pics of this Road by Hashim Zargar.
Well there are Two Passes, either of which has to be crossed in order to drive down to Leh. The Zoji La from the Kashmir side or the Baralacha La from the Lahoul side to get into Ladakh.
Actually there is a third one as well. Its called the Kaobal Gali, and it connects Gurez in Kashmir to Drass in via Mushkoh Valley Kargil, Ladakh and hence you bypass the Zoji La.
Gurez and Drass are actually close to each other if you look at them in a Map and the people also share cultural similarities in the fact that they are both Shina speaking people who came down from Gilgit centuries ago. (Thats another Tale for another time).
But as of now the Road is off limits to Civilians but hopefully it will open one day for General use.
From those who have taken this Road I hear stories of unparalleled unmatched beauty as some of you must have visited both these places and know how they are.
A glimpse of somewhere on the Gurez to Drass Road.
Kiki’s Blog
Stories from the Himalayas
Five years ago the Galwan Valley was in the News for the wrong reasons after a deadly clash between the Indian and Chinese Armies in the Valley located in Ladakh lead to many deaths on the contentious Border between the two countries in wake of continued Chinese intrusions into Indian territory.
This area along the Shyok River, of which the Galwan Nallah or the Galwan River which forms the Galwan Valley has been off limits to Civilians since long but now the Indian Government has decided to open up the area for Civilians and we were amongst the First Civilians to venture into this beautifully desolate part of the Eastern Karakorams in Ladakh. Earlier Civilians could only venture upto the Village of Shyok from where the Shyok River takes a U turn and flows in a Northerly direction.