The Burmese Tamils of Moreh

The Burmese Tamils of Moreh

In my days at the Delhi University I had a large number of friends from the North East. A common taste in Heavy Metal music was the main reason for the same. And ofcourse I used to love the stories told about the North East by these guys. We also had another commonality that we came from lands from where Insurgency was rife and only someone who has grown up in an Insurgency can really understand how it feels. And of course last but not the least was our common love for the Mountains / Hills.

And from my friends amongst the Nagas, I had Angami, Ao, Konyak and Tangkhul and from Manipur I had Meties and the Kukis. This interrelation of the tribes was another thing fascinated me as well. An often our conversation would drift to the our respective worlds where I would speak of Kashmir and they would speak of the fascinating North East. I still remember I almost broke up with a Naga girlfriend who told me that Dzukou Valley was more beautiful than Kashmir. Of course I couldn't take it lying down. I asked her if it Snowed there ? She said yes it does Snow there. I said it doesn't Snow in Nagaland. She said I didn't know anything. And of course then the argument went overboard to the point that we didn't speak for many days. Not that it mattered but since that day the name Dzukou Valley was stuck in my mind and will surely visit one day as now I have seen many pics of this beautiful place.

Anyways coming to the point. While discussing the Insurgency and the various Insurgents Groups the most dangerous place which was always mentioned was the border town of Moreh in Manipur right on the border with Burma as it used to be. I heard tales of strong Insurgent-Smuggler-Drug Runners mafia which ran things over there and apparently the area was such that even the Security forces would stick to the regular areas. And of course there were deadly rivalries between the different Insurgent Groups due to their different Tribal loyalties. But the strangest fact was that most of the border trade was controlled by not someone from North East but originally  from South India. It was controlled by the Tamils who had settled here. And these were Burmese Tamils.

Of course I used to ask how come the Tamils ? And that too Burmese Tamils ? Did something called a Burmese Tamil even exist ? And how do they manage as “outsiders” in what was considered an environment very hostile to the outsiders. I could never get a satisfactory answer for the same and over a period of time I also lost interest in this particular subject. But lately as I get more into Research and History I tried to actually find out the History behind the Tamils of Moreh and how they came to settle in these lands far removed from their ancestral Tamil lands down South. And settle in lands which were considered too hostile for any outsider to even come for a visit.

So this is what I found out. In Burma Indians from various parts of India have come over the centuries for various trades and practices. Among them were Tamils many of whom were Chettiars who were into Money lending and trading. And over a period of time many Tamils came and settled here like they did in other places like British Malaya and Singapore. However in the 1930s started a wave of Nationalism initially targeted at the British but which soon turned into a agitation against all perceived outsiders and as a result many Indian started to leave Burma and go elsewhere. After the Burmese secured Independence the problem just got exaggerated as the Burmese Government refused to recognise the Indians living there since Generations as citizens. So another mass exodus started and this included a large number of Tamils who returned to Tamil Nadu.

Once back in Tamil Nadu many got used to life in their new Homeland but many were not at ease with the move and found life difficult. They decided that life in Burma was still better than life in Tamil Nadu and they decided to go back to Burma. Since going by Ship would entail many problems with documentation and such so they decided to try the overland Route via the North East. Many of you must be aware that the Indo Burmese border is quite a porous Border unlike our Borders with other countries and its relatively easy to cross it. So all the Tamils who wanted to go back to Burma landed up in Moreh which was the last Border town in Manipur before Burma. But once again the Burmese refused to admit them and recognise them as Burmese nationals.

The returning Tamils were however in no mood to go back to Tamil Nadu and decided to stay put in Moreh and keep trying their luck with the Burmese and maybe they liked the environs of Moreh. And I assume most of these Tamils could speak Burmese so they could live by the Border and take part in the trade from Burma. So they stayed put and became an important part of the trading community in the Border town and they relatively large numbers and nowhere to go status gave them some resilience against the Underground Outfits active in the Region. And hence they became a part of the border town of Moreh. Along with some Punjabi and Marwari businessmen who had also settled here in the past.

As of today the Tamil community is a vibrant one in Moreh with numbers in excess of 3000 and they have their own Temples and Schools in Moreh. They are still a very important part of the cross Border trade and continue to control most of it. And especially since the opening of official Border trade from Moreh, with Moreh recognised as an important Border trading town, in August 2018. The Town has itself has seen a power struggle between the Kuki and the Nagas over the “control” of the Town and as of now the Town is Kuki dominated. All throughout this struggle which at time included Members of various armed Underground Outfits the Tamils managed to somehow stay clear and still be dominant in the business in this Town but many of them still left the Town. The local Vayapar Mandal or Traders Association is made up almost exclusively of Tamils and the head of the Tamils is often referred to as the “King of Moreh”.

The Chakma Raja who gave away a Kingdom !

The Chakma Raja who gave away a Kingdom

In the highlands of Bangladesh called the Chittagong Hill tracts bordering Myanmar live a number of Tribes which are collectively referred to as the Jumma people by the majority Bangla population. The name derives from the the term Jhum cultivation which is also referred to as the slash and burn type of Cultivation wherein a tract of Jungle was cleared by slashing and burning and cultivation was then done there. t the time of Partition of India for some inconceivable reason these areas were ceded to “East Pakistan” though the population was mainly Tribal who practiced Theravada Buddhism.

The “Jumma People’ themselves are divided into various tribes all of whom have their own Religious practices though most have adopted Buddhism, there are still a few that are Hindu and Christian and even Muslim. Most of them still maintain some level of their indigenous animist beliefs as well. The main Tribes of the region are the Chakma, Arakanese (Rakhine), Marma, Tripuri, Tanchangya, Chak, Pankho, Mru, Bawm, Lushai, Khyang, Gurkha, indigenous Assamese, Keot (Kaibarta), Santal, and Khumi as per Wiki.

Among these people the most well known ones and the most dominant ones are the Chakmas. The Chakmas are Theravada Buddhists and many of them live across the Borders as well in India and Myanmar. In India they are found in almost all the states in the North East and even in West Bengal. The name Chakma is supposed to have been derived from the Sanskrit word “Shaktiman” as many Chakmas served in the Kingdoms of the Rakhine Kings and they wielded great power. The Chakmas themselves are divided into various Clans and reigning over all the clans is the powerful Chakma Raja.

Some of your must be aware that there was long running dispute between India and Bangladesh as a number of Chakmas had taken refuge in India citing discrimination and harassment by the Authorities in Bangladesh and this for long was a prickly issue with its roots going back to Independence. There still are Chakmas living in refugee Camps in certain areas of North East India.

At the time of Independence the Raja of Chakmas was Raja Nalinaksha Roy. Though the Chittagong Hill Tracts had a 98% non-Muslim population they were still assigned to Pakistan by the Boundary Commision. The Raja had come into power in 1935 and had Ruled for 12 years at the time of Independence. He acceded to East Pakistan as there little else he could do and was given Autonomy by the Pakistani Government to make him easier to win over. The Raja passed away in 1951 and after sometime as in Chakma tradition his eldest son Raja Tridev Roy was formally annointed as the 50th Chakma Raja in 1953.

Once the Mukti Bahini started its campaign in the 1960s the Chakma Raja decided that they will remain neutral as they didnt want to rub the Mukti Bahini or the Pakistani Army the wrong way. But Raja Tridev Roy became increasingly inclined towards the Pakistani Government. Infact Sheikh Mujibur Rehman offered him a seat to fight on behalf of the Awami League but Raja Sahib disagreed and instead stood up as an Independent and won the Seat though overall the Awami League got a landslide victory in East Pakistan. And soon after a series of Events the Liberation War, as the Bangladeshis called it started. But once again Raja Sahib sided with Pakistan as I think he assumed that the Pakistanis would hold ground. But things went rather the other way and Raja Sahib found himself in deep trouble. With his Allies close to defeat the Raja Sahib knew that life would be hard for him in an independent Bangladesh due to the stands he had taken. So he decided to abdicate.

Raja Tridev Roy abdicated in 1971 in favor of his eldest Son, the 12 year old Raja Devashish Roy. The Raja knew that even Abdication would not be enough as people would come to settle scores with him. Also he felt that the position of the Chakmas would become precarious in a new Bangladesh and their special rights and privileges would be taken away. He was in many ways right. The Raja had only one option now and he went over to West Pakistan or Pakistan as it came to be known thereon. He was welcomed very warmly on his arrival in Pakistan and conferred the status of a Federal Minister for life. But more was still to come.

The first task he undertook was to head the Pakistani Mission to UN which opposed the admission of Bangladesh to the United Nations. In answer to this the Bangladeshi delegation was led by the Chakma Rajamata Benita Roy who happened to be his Mother. I wonder what transpired between the Son and the Mother. Two Chakma Royalty Members, from the Hills of the North East, both devout Buddhists, headed important delegations from two countries which were overwhelmingly Muslim and with the largest Muslim populations besides Indonesia. It was indeed something straight out of a Thriller. Anyways Bangladesh became a Member of the United Nations and that was that.

However, Raja Sahib wasn't done yet and he joined the Bhutto Government. And when Bhutto became the Prime Minister of Pakistan he offered the Presidentship of Pakistan to Raja Tridev Roy. This was a great opportunity but it came with a rider. As per the new Constitution of Pakistan only a Muslim could become the President of Pakistan. And of course this wasn't acceptable to the erstwhile Raja Sahib of the Chakmas. So now after giving up the Kingship of the Chakmas, the Raja Sahib declined the Presidentship of Pakistan.

And then Gen. Zia came into power and Mr.Bhutto was hanged and all Bhutto loyalists came under the attack and none escaped the Generals wrath. Well all except the Raja Sahib. Bhutto knew better than to let any harm come to Raja Tridev Roy. Raja Sahib stayed active in Politics and there was little that Gen Zia could do to him but after a couple of years he decided he didnt want him to be around. So a new Role was found for the Raja Sahib and he was appointed as the Pakistani Ambassador to Argentina in 1981 and off he went to South America. And at the same time he was made the Ambassador to Chile, Ecuador, Peru and Uruguay. The Raja Sahib from what was considered the Himalayan foothills by many could now while his time in the Andes Mountains it seemed. And he stayed in South America for many years till the time Gen. Zia passed away.

After Gen Zias death Raja Sahib was brought back to the sub-continent at least from South America and appointed as the Ambassador to Sri Lanka. Being a Buddhist he made a good choice as an Ambassador to a Buddhist majority country. And finally in 1995 Raja Sahib returned to Pakistan after his Ambassadorial assignments abroad. He now turned his attention to working for the Buddhist Community in Pakistan and decided to devote more of his life to Religious pursuits and also became the head of the Pakistan Buddhist Society.

Raja Tridev Roy finally passed away in 2012 (less than 7 years back) due to cardiac arrest as his home in Islamabad. His House in E-7 had a Plaque on the outside and it said “Chakma House”. And he was largely alone when the end came. No one in Pakistan by that time had any recollection of the soft spoken King of the Chakmas who gave up his Kingdom and declined the Presidentship of Pakistan. No one really cared.

Do Google Raja Tridev Roy. Was a Handsome guy !

Pic from the Internet. Somewhere in the Chittagong Hill Tracts

The Shaksgam Valley

08 View Of Shaksgam Valley To The West Towards Gasherbrums From Terrace Above The Shaksgam River On Trek To K2 North Face In China. Pic credit Jerome Ryan

The Shaksgam Valley

One of the Valleys lying hidden in the inaccessible depths of the Trans Karakorams is the Shaksgam Valley but thats not its real claim to fame. It is purported to be an integral part of the state of Jammu and Kashmir but under Pakistani control and has since been “ceded” to China by Pakistan as per the terms of their Border Settlement Agreement.It is also referred to as the Trans Karakoram Tract and the Tract has an area of almost 7000 sq km.

And as soon as it became a part of China access and approach to it became much more complicated and has been out of bounds till the Chinese decided to open the Valley as it serves as a an alternative Basecamp from the North for the K2, the second highest Peak on the Planet. The Valley itself is around the Shaksgam River and as said before its bounded by the Karakorams in the South and the Kun Luns in the North. Its political status notwithstanding the Shaksgam valley is one of the most inhospitable places on the planet.

Mountain Across The Shaksgam Valley On Descent From Aghil Pass On Trek To K2 North Face In China. Pic credit Jerome Ryan

As mentioned one Passes through this Valley on the way to the North Base Camp of the K2 which is situated in the same Region and you descend into this amazing wilderness after crossing the Aghil Pass which serves as the Gateway to the Shaksgam Valley. The Shaksgam River itself is a tributary of the Yarkand River and hence the water ends of in the void of the Tarim Basin. The Shaksgam Valley was explored by sir Francis Younghusband once upon a time though he referred to it as the Oprang. Few Explorers had ventured into this Mountain wilderness before Younghusband.

And then suddenly I come across an Article on one of the Most Travel Aggregator Sites which puts it as thus “If only this paradise was open for tourism, Shaksgam would have beaten Switzerland and Iceland as the most favoured exotic travel destination. The world is a beautiful place, and sometimes this beauty becomes the reason for conflict among admirers. Shaksgam is that enchantress who has been veiled.” Really ? Dude ? And of course it was accompanied by beautiful pics with Tall Pine Trees and Flowing Rivers. Quite unlike Shaksgam if I may mention.

View Of Descent From Aghil Pass 4810m Towards Shaksgam Valley On Trek To K2 North Face In China. Pic credit Jerome Ryan

Eric Shipton and TG Longstaff, two of the greatest explorers of these Mountains of the Himalayan Complex went exploring in this Region and came up with their masterpiece “Blank on the Map: Pioneering exploration in the Shaksgam valley and Karakoram mountains. And it is described as such “As I studied the maps, one thing about them captured my imagination … Across this blank space was written one challenging word, "Unexplored"' In 1937 two of the twentieth century's greatest explorers set off to explore an unknown area of the Himalaya, the breath-taking Shaksgam mountains. With a team of surveyors and Sherpas, Eric Shipton and H.W. Tilman located and mapped the land around K2, the second-highest mountain in the world. It was their greatest venture, and one that paved the way for all future mountaineering in that area of the Himalaya.

Looking West Nearing Sunset From Kerqin Camp In The Shaksgam Valley On Trek To K2 North Face In China. Pic credit Jerome Ryan

For Shipton and Tilman, exploration was everything, with a summit a welcome bonus, and Blank on the Map is the book that best captures their spirit of adventure. With an observant eye and keen sense of humor, Shipton tells how the expedition entered the unknown Shaksgam mountains, crossing impenetrable gorges, huge rivers and endless snow fields. There's a very human element to in Shipton's dealings with his Sherpa friends, and with his Balti porters, some of whom were helpful, while some were less so. The expedition uncovers traces of ancient cultures and visits vibrant modern civilizations living during the last days of the British Empire. Only when all supplies are exhausted, their clothes in tatters and all equipment lost do the men finally return home. A mountain exploration classic.

Large Flat Rocky Expanse Of The Terrace Above The Shaksgam River On Trek To K2 North Face In China. Pic by Jerome Ryan

Ill leave it at that. And add a pic of the Shaksgam Valley taken by Jerome Ryan a couple of years back.

The Hindu Raj Mountains

The Hindu Raj Mountains

There lies somewhere in the Northern wilderness of Gilgit Baltistan and Khyber Pakhtunkhwa nestled between the mighty Karakorams and the Hindu Kush a Mountain Range called the Hindu Raj Mountains. Most people consider it a part of the Hindu Kush Mountains but many Geographers and purists consider the Hindu Raj as a separate Range. And surprisingly very few people have ever heard of it in the sub-continent. Though everyone is quite aware of the Hindu Kush Range and the many versions how it came to be named as such. The same should have been the case with the Hindu Raj but I guess someone missed the Memo.

The Hindu Raj Mountains are a noble Range in their own right but just like the Pir Panjals to the South across the Great Himalayan Range it gets dwarfed by the giant Peaks of the Karakoram and the Hindu Kush. Not that it lacks heavy weights just that in a Region which abounds with numerous 7000 m plus Peaks and even 8000 m plus Peaks the tallest Peak of the Hindu Raj Mountains, the Koyo Zum tops in at 6872 m (22,546 ft) which is by no means less but it just gets dwarfed as mentioned earlier. To put that height into perspective the tallest Peak of the Andes, the Aconcagua stands at 6962 m.

As per Encyclopedia Britannica “A wider definition of the Hindu Kush would include a fourth region known as Hindu Raj in Pakistan. This region is formed by a long, winding chain of mountains—with some lofty peaks, such as Mounts Darkot (22,447 feet [6,842 metres]) and Buni Zom (21,499 feet [6,553 metres])—which strikes southward from the Lupsuk Peak (18,861 feet [5,749 metres]) in the eastern region, then continues to the Lawarai / Lowari Pass (12,100 feet [3,688 metres]) and beyond to the Kābul River. (The Lowari Pass is a Pass which connects Dir in Khyber Pakhtunkhwa with Chitral which also falls in the same province. The Lowari Pass is the lowest of the 4 traditional Passes which connected Chitral with the outside world. The Lowari Pass is famous for its avalanches and the number of people who died on it historically. Think of it like you think of the Rohtang or the Zoji). If this chain is considered part of the Hindu Kush, then the outlying mountains of the Swat Kohistan region of Pakistan to the south also form part of the complex.”

As per another definition by “Batholith Saltoro” the range that lies between the true left bank of the valley of the Yarkhun/ Mastuj River in the West and North and the Northern watershed of Swat Kohistan in the South, is the Hindu Raj. The main range of the Hindu Kush lies to the East and North of the Yarkhun/ Mastuj/ Chitral/ Kunar River system.

Now most of us are familiar with the Etymology of the Hindu Kush which as per one definition meant the “Killer of the Hindus” which was a reference to the fierce avalanches that the Hindu Kush would let loose. It was also supposedly a reference to the large number of people from the subcontinent who were taken as slaves to Central Asia across the Hindu Kush and many perished while crossing this formidable Mountain Range. But as per the Encyclopaedia Britannica the term Hindu Kush is derived from Arabic and it simply means the Mountains of India. But then this is a debatable issue and we leave it as such to ponder over it another day.

So I assume the Hindu Raj reference must have come from the Hindu Shahi Rulers who held power in this Region. But this is just an assumption. You need to keep in mind that at that time “Hindu” was a geographic term and it still has but now it has a different connotation. Or since the area is in the same vicinity where the Kalasha people live maybe its a reference to them and their ancestors when most people here were Kalsha. This remains a matter of my personal speculation as I am yet to come across a source which mentions why exactly these Mountains were called the “Hindu Raj” Mountains.

And culturally also the area has a very interesting history. As per “Batholight Saltoro” “Culturally, the linguistic mixture is interesting, containing as it does a mixture of Shina, Burushaski, Khowar, Gujar, and Wakhi speakers which reflects the complex history of the area. It has been ruled variously from Chitral, both by the Kushwaqt and the Ul Mulk dynasties, from Gilgit, from Srinagar, from Tibet, from Persia. The original inhabitants of its Eastern Valleys seem to have been Burushaski speakers, preserving, as they do, what is considered to be a purer version of that language as compared to that which is spoken in the Hunza region. The Yasin valley, the pass at the head of which served as a conduit for the Chinese to invade and conquer the Tibetan held Lesser Bolor, is also the valley where the explorer/journalist George Hayward was murdered, perhaps for being a tad too investigative.

Another interesting Range in the Great Himalayan System now somehow obscured by other more famous Ranges / Sub ranges of the system.

Kintup and the Everest of Rivers

Kintup and the Everest of the Rivers

A lot has been written on the exploration of the Western Himalayas by various Explorers as it was a politically very active region in the 18th and 19th Centuries with various powers come into conflict to push their interests in these parts. In stark contrast very less has been written about the Eastern edge of the Himalayas and even fewer people have ventured into this enigmatic part of the Himalayas. The jungles which surrounded the Eastern Himalayas made them almost impossible to get to and the Weather didn't help as the Eastern Himalayas get 3 times the precipitation that the Western Himalayas do.

And was in the Eastern Himalayas that a great mystery evolved which took hundreds of years to finally decipher and figure it out. It was a great Geographical puzzle and it involved the main River that runs through North East India, the Brahmaputra. Its a huge River as we are aware of and early Explorers wanted to find more and one of the favourite Explorations of these Explorers was the charting of the Route of the River from its source right till where it met the Sea. There are two ways to achieve its objective. You either start from the point it originates or you start from the point it hits the Seas or the Plains. The problem with the Brahmaputra was that tracing it back to the source was almost impossible due to a number of factors. First was the simple fact that the forests in the Foot Hills were impenetrable. And more than that the Tribes and the Indigenous People living in these Hills were very hostile to any outsiders and stories of head hunting were common. And another third point was that at the Brahmaputra was composed of 4 main tributaries which entered India from the East. So which was the main and which one was a Tributary was another question.

And in the highlands of Tibet, which was mostly inaccessible to Western explorers and outsiders, was a great River called the Tsangpo or the Yarlung Tsangpo who’s point of origin was known to be the Mansarover Lake at the foot of the Holy Kailash Mountain but no one was sure of where the River disappeared once it went off the Tibetan Plateau. Westerners who had heard accounts of this great River were also intrigued as to where about this great River go and where did it discharge into the sea. You need to remember that this impenetrable Region into which the Yarlung Tsangpo disappeared was also called Pemako and nothing much was known about it to the outside World. And beyond Pemako draining off the Tibetan Plateau were not one but 5 Great Rivers of Asia who create deep Gorges as they cut through some of the Highest Mountains. The Brahmaputra, the Irrawaddy, the Salween, the Mekong and the Jinsha or the Great Yangtze all flow almost parallel to each other in an area less than a 100 km wide. This Region is a true wilderness and you need to experience it to know how impossible it is to access.

I had travelled to this Region in 2018 and saw the breathtaking sight of the Jinsha or the Yangtze raving and frothing its way through the Tiger Leaping Gorge. Of course Chinese engineering has meant that the area is now accessible and the Chinese Government opened up this area in 1990’s to the outside World. This area is now a World Heritage Area, called the Three Parallel Rivers of Yunnan World Heritage. And as mentioned besides these Three the other two Great Rivers also skirt around the Himalayas in the same region.

Coming back to where we started. This question puzzled western Explorers as well till someone put two and two together and said “Hey, maybe the Tsangpo is the Brahmaputra”. Now at that time this suggestion looked incredible as it was hard to believe that a River would loose all that elevation within a stretch of 150 kms. From the high Tibetan Plateau to the low Assam Valleys. But then it was the only plausible explanation and the two Rivers were connected. There was another school of thought which said that the Tsangpo was actually the Irrawaddy and that also looked like a possibility. Many papers were return and letters were exchanged on both the possibilities. The only way to get a definite answer was to send someone to Tibet and actually follow the course of the River and come up with conclusive evidence which would rest the matter for the future. Hence for many Explorers just like climbing the Everest was the ultimate prize, the same way exploring the Yarlung Tsangpo all the way to the Sea was called a feat equivalent of scaling the Everest, hence the term the Everest of Rivers.

Only there was a problem. Tibet was off limits and there was no chance of Tibetans letting in anyone from outside to Survey their Rivers. So the British decided on the next best option. The Pandits. The Legendary Pandits were Indian natives, mostly from the Mountains, who penetrated deep into Tibet under the guide of Pilgrims or Merchants or a Monks and surveyed the land for the British who ran the Missions from across the Himalayas. Many of us have heard of Nain Singh, Kishan Singh, Kalyan Singh and even Abdul Hamid and Hari Ram. And of course a large number of these Pandits just went into oblivion or disappeared in the Himalayan vastness their stories mostly untold. And then there was Kintup. Kintup the Tailor.

Kintup was a Tailor based in Gangtok in Sikkim and he was also an Explorer and could pass off very well as a Tibetan. The first time one of the Pandits, Nem Singh was sent to explore the course of the Yarlung Zangbo and Kintup went along as an assistant in 1878. Their Mission was to chart the Route all the way from the Tibetan Plateau to Assam. They partly succeeded but due to the inherent impenetrable ness of the Terrain there was still a gap of 160 kms which they couldn't explore. It is said that though Kintup wanted to push on but Nem Singh wasn't so keen on the same and both returned to India where their British bosses were not too pleased with Nem Singh’s decision to come back without exploring the complete course of the River.

In a couple of years an Expedition was put together again and Kintup was again a part of it along with a Chinese Lama who said he knew these parts. And just to be sure they came up with a ingenious Plan which didnt require Exploring the whole course but one that would still prove that the Yarlung Tsangpo was infact the Brahmaputra of Assam. The Plan involved floating down 500 logs with special carvings the Yarlung Tsangpo and stationing teams of people in lower Assam to watch out for these Logs and even if one log was picked up by the team it would mean that the mystery was solved. Sounded like quite a plan and so the Expedition was soon underway.

But as fate would have it the Chinese Lama turned out to be treacherous. And once they were in the Kham he revealed his secret as well as that of Kintup to the Tibetan Authorities and he was rewarded for the act while Kintup was thrown into the prison. But after a few months Kintup managed to escape and made his way to Monastery. His captors soon caught up with him but the Head Lama of the Monastery bought them off by giving them some money and now Kintup was in the employment of the Head Lama. He worked very diligently for the Lama and I assume he took a liking for his spirit and the Lama decided to give him his freedom. What Kintup did next speaks for the character of a man. Kintup decided to go to Lhasa and sent a message to his British boss from there narrating the misfortune that had befallen him during the Expedition but at the same time he said that he would carry out with his Mission and he would soon start sending the Logs down the Yarlung Zangbo.

And that is what he did. He collected 500 logs and carved them and floated them down the River at the rate of one log per day. But unfortunately there was no Team to look for them as his message had not reached India and it had been more than a year since he had left and had no communication with his Bosses. They had just given up on him. Another Explorer lost in the vastness of the Trans Himalayas. After having done that Kintup decided to again explore down the course of the River anyways. He spent a couple of Years exploring the the Region and came quite close to reaching all the way down to Assam but again the terrain and the hostile Tribes made it impossible and Kintup decided to return to India. And he was almost lost in oblivion until someone took interest in his Journals and these were finally published in 1889, many years after he had returned from a Journey that few could even imagine possible.

His Journal conjured up a magical World of Deep Gorges, Waterfalls and Impenetrable Jungle with hostile Tribes. A Region that the Tibetans used to call Pemako. It inspired many people to go Explore the Region but many people were also sceptical as there was no way to confirm all the information that he had got. He in particular mentioned a 150 feet high Waterfall with a Lake at its bottom. This is what was called the Hidden Falls. Kintup still accompanied the occasional forays into Tibet but it was finally only after 1905 when the British led by Col.Francis Younghusband defeated the Tibetan and the area was opened that the British realised that Kintup was right in all his observations. Though he wasnt literate but he had an excellent memory and was intelligent as well to minutely observe his surroundings. It took more than 15 years for observations to be validated and added to the Survey of India archives. The final validation of his extraordinary Journeys and Explorations was validated by a team of Explorers sent to run the Course of the River. They were also astounded to find out how accurate Kintup was. And yes he was still around in 1914. They found the Hidden  Waterfall as well though it wasn't as high as Kintup had mentioned.

Anyways the area was closed for further Explorations after the Chinese took Tibet and in wake of the Sino Indian conflict the whole area was off limits. And as I mentioned before the area was opened for foreigners only in the 1990s and two Expeditions one Japanese and one Western tried to Canoe/ Raft down the Yarlung Tsangpo but both lost a member each and couldnt complete the Mission. It was only in 2002-2003 that the first Expedition finally succeeded in navigating the Upper Brahmaputra. The highest Falls was visited and recorded again in 1998 when it was found out to be around 108 feet. And then it later dawned upon the Explorers that Kintup who always got his Maths right hadn't misjudged the height. He was talking about a seperate Waterfall which was made by a Tributary of the Yarlung Tsangpo as it fell over a Cliff.

The person responsible for this was Richard Fisher who first established this as one of the Deepest Gorges of the World. Fisher further goes onto mention about the “Everest of Rivers”comparison “"I did not want this incredible canyon to become an Everest-style killing fields."  This canyon cannot be "knocked off" or conquered. Everest is a holy mountain as the Tsangpo is an equally important sacred canyon. Everest represents the male earth and the Tsangpo, the female hidden lands of this planet. It is a great blessing for all those who love the earth that, god willing, we have passed into a new era for the Tsangpo.  This living canyon has withstood an almost military western style assault. "Today this chasm remains as elusive, beautiful and fresh as the first day I saw it in 1992," Fisher said.

As for Kintup he died in 1914 only months after he was officially recognised for his contributions and given a princely sum of Rs.3000 for his endeavors.

PS : The Yarlung Tsangpo Gorge it still remains a impenetrable area and even if you Google for pics you would find only a few and far between giving you an idea of how remote this Region still is.

High Altitude Gear from the Hall of Fame in Leh

High Altitude Gear from the Hall of Fame in Leh

The Hall of Fame Museum near Leh in Ladakh has a section dedicated to the Equipment used by High Altitude Mountaineers generally and the Indian Army specifically while guarding the high frontiers in the Himalayas and the Karakorams. We have a look at some of the great Gear on display. The same Equipment is sued by the Indian Army deployed at the frozen heights of the Siachen Glacier in Northern Ladakh.

A high end Dome tent for two people.

Palletised loads. These are air dropped to various locations at places where access is difficult.

A Sled and a De-compression Bag

A low temperature high Altitude all Weather suit. along with different climbing aids displayed on the Wall.

Different Mountaineering Gear I

Different Mountaineering Gear II

A Snowmobile

A Dome Tent

A Siachen Soldier’s full Gear

Knots. different types of Knots

The Muztagh

The Muztagh

People who read Books about old explorations in the Western Himalayas and Karakoram and the Hindu Kush come across a term quite often “Muztagh”. The first time I read this name, and though I was unaware of the meaning I knew it was a strong word. For a long time Muztagh was the name given to the almost impenetrable wall of Mountains which separate Kashmir from Central Asia. An of course with everything in Central Asia the word has Turkic origins.

Muztagh is made up of two words : Muz/ Buz which means Ice and Tagh/Dagh which means Mountain. So it means Ice Mountain which is similar to the word Himalayas which gets its from Sanskrit words Him meaning Snow and Alaya which means home. To the Ancients in India any Mountain which was permanently Snow covered was a Himalaya and in the same way the word Muztagh was the term used by the Turkic people to describe any Mountain that was permanently covered with Snow. Simple implication is that Snow covered Mountains always had a certain degree of reverential awe attached to them and it is no wonder that in may beliefs the Mountains were supposed to be the place the Gods resided.

The Karakoram was for the longest time referred to as Muztagh. The Karakorams because of their perpendicularity are the most impenetrable Mountain Ranges in the World and the people never went into them and there is simply no inhabitation. That's why it took Westerners to actually figure out that K2 was the second highest Mountain in the World. To the locals (as in the people living closest to the K2) it was simply a Muztagh out of many Muztaghs. And to them any Mountain in any direction was simply a Muztagh. They didn't really care if it was the Karakorams, the Himalayas, the Hindu Kush or the Pamirs. And this is unlike say in Nepal where the Everest was known as the Sagarmatha or “The Goddess of the Sky’ and the Tibetans called it the Chomolungma or the Holy Mother.

And as of today the term Muztagh is still in use for some Mighty Peaks in the Karakorams, in the Pamirs and even on the Northern edge of the Tibetan Plateau near Mongolia. And it was also the name of a very famous Pass which connected Baltistan with Central Asia made famous by Francis Younghusband who came down from Central Asia into Baltistan via the Mustagh Pass. Infact Younghusband identified two Passes as the Muztagh pass. One was the Old Muztagh Pass and the other was the New Muztagh Pass. Both Passes were well over 5000 m and were on the watershed between the Tarim Basin to the North and the Indus Basin to the South. The Muztagh Pass was the shortest Route between Skardu and Yarkand and by extension the shortest Route between Kashmir / Punjab bypassing Ladakh and into Central Asia and was a part of the Silk Route in those days. The Pass had gradually been abandoned as it became treacherous to cross due to Glacial movements.

By Jialiang Gao www.peace-on-earth.org - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=2626699

And now coming to the Mighty mountains that carry the Muztagh name. The mightiest is of them all and one of my favourite Mountains is the Muztagh Ata. Not only is it a “Muztagh” but its an “Ata”. Ata is the Turkic word for Father/ Ancestor. So Muztagh Ata means the Ice Mountain Father. At 7509 m it is one of the highest Peaks in Central Asia and though regarded as a part of the Kun Lun Range by some it is considered a part of the “Eastern Pamirs” by most. Whatever Range its classified in it is a majestic Mountain and said to be one of the few 7000+ m Peaks which is considered easier to climb than most other Peaks of that classification. And as per one scholar the Rig Veda also mentions a Mountain called Mujavant from where the best Soma came from and he is certain that the Mountain in question is none other than the Muztagh Ata. Interesting to say the least.

The Muztagh Tower : By Kogo (talk · contribs) - Own work by the original uploader, GFDL, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=35803

Now we come to another interesting Mountain called the Muztagh Tower which is in the Baltoro Range of the Karakorams. This Tower shaped Mountain was first immortalized on film by none other than Vittoria Sella who took a picture of this impressive Peak. At 7276 m it just great justice to its status as a Muztagh. Infact the pic of the Muztagh Tower was used in some Book where it was titled simply as the “Last Citadel” and it is almost one. The “Last Citadel” was climbed in 1956 when Sella’s pic set off a race between two separate teams of Mountaineers.

And the most isolated Muztagh. The “Great” Muztagh or the Ulugh Muztagh. The word Ulugh in Turkic stands for “Great”. This is an extremely remote Group of Mountains at the North of the Tibetan Plateau and its lies on the Northern front of the Kun Lun Mountains. For a long time the elevation of this Mountain was said to be 7700m plus but in 1985 using modern equipment the height was measured to be 6973 m but didnt do anything to take from the Ulugh part. It still is unclimbed and it is said that many Expeditions have even failed to reach the base of the Mountain due to its remoteness and due to the fact that driving to the Mountain involves going through terrain of between 4000 m to 5000 m. And it is a beautiful Mountain. Doing great justice to the Muztagh part as well.

The Ulugh Muztagh

And lastly even today the Karakorams are sometimes referred to as the Karakoram Muztagh or even Muztagh. Infact Eric Shipton mentions that once upon a time there were certain Scholars who wanted the Karakorams to be re-named as the Muztagh. But that didnt really happen but even today the sub Ranges of the Karakoram carry the Muztagh title. Some of these Muztagh sub Ranges of the Karakorams is as under

Baltoro Muztagh
Batura Muztagh
Hispar Muztagh
Panmah Muztagh
Rimo Muztagh
Sasser Muztagh
Siachen Muztagh

And leaving you with a pic of the Sasser Muztagh (also known as Saser Kangri as Kangri is the Tibetan word for a Mountain) as seen from the Khardung La. At 7672 m it does great justice to its title as a Muztagh. And once you are done with with your selfies at the superlative sign boards at the top take a look North. And when you spot the Saser Muztagh just bow down. A little. You just saw a Muztagh.

Pic from August 2018. The Saser Muztagh/ Kangri, Khardung La, Ladakh



Himalayan Geology / Tectonics

 Source: An Yin 2005

Himalayan Geology / Tectonics

Most of us are aware of the process of the formation of the Himalayas which were formed by the Collision and subsequent subduction between the Indian Plate and the Eurasian Plate. But that's about all we care to know. Well most of us though.

Now here is a splendid map that shows the Geology as well as the Tectonics of the Himalayas and how actually the boundaries are defined. It also shows the distinction between the Lesser Himalayas / the Greater Himalayas / the Tethys Himalayas / the Trans Himalayas as well as the Karakorams. It is very complicated as well and took me, an Amatuer, a lot of time to really figure out this stuff. But the more you understand the more interesting it becomes.

Some points I will run you through so that you also get a basic handle on this rather complicated Map. Many times a fundamental question is asked, are the Karakorams a part of the Himalayas ? Well the answer based on Geology and Tectonics is that its not. The Indus Tsangpo suture lies between the Tethys Himalayas on one side of the suture and the Karakoram-Tibet on the other side.

You can see the Thrust lines marked with little arrows. The main one in front in the Main Mantle Thrust which more or less follows the Indus Tsangpo suture. In simpler words the Indus and the Tsangpo (called the Brahmaputra in India) flow along the Main Mantle Thrust. However the Main Karakoram Thrust deviates as a separate fault form somewhere near the Pangong Lake. It from there on follows a course of its own. Where as the Main Mantle Thrust follows the Indus (it's actually the other way round) till beyond the Nanga Parbat which is considered the Western anchor of the Himalayas. And on the Eastern side the Namche Barwa is the considered the Eastern end of the Himalayas.

And then you can also see that the Salt Range in the Punjab is the youngest sub-Range of the Himalayan System. And interestingly it also shows Himalayan Tethyan sequence as the Blue colour indicates.

Another diagram shows how the Indian plate subducted under the Eurasian Plate. And how the Tethys Himalayas was formed when a part of the Ocean Floor was uplifted and placed right on the top between the Great Himalayas and the Tibet mainland. As the diagram shows the Indian plate is subducting or sliding under the Asian plate and this isn't without some friction. And this friction and this to and from between the two land masses resulted in the emergence of the Himalayas. And the subduction still continues and the Himalayas continue to rise and as per experts the rise is maximum in the Nanga Parbat region as it lies on the edge and gets pressure from the other side as well.

Some of the terms used explained in simple terms from various sources from the Net :

Faults : A fault is simply a fracture in a layer of Rocks or a discontinuity or a separation if you may. And these are the hot-spots where all the Tectonic and subsequently Volcanic eruptions. Think of faults as the Borders between two masses which are constantly changing and engaging each other. Besides the Main Thrusts (Main Frontal / Main Boundary / Main Central / Main Mantle / Main Karakoram ) there are smaller localised Thrusts named properly in this map with the local annotations which makes it more fascinating.

Ophiolites : Ophiolites are pieces of oceanic plate that have been thrusted (obducted) onto the edge of continental plates. They provide models for processes at mid-ocean ridges. Ophiolites are an assemblage of mafic and ultramafic lavas and hypabyssal rocks found in association with sedimentary rocks like greywackes and cherts.

STD Klippe : A klippe (German for cliff or crag) is a geological feature of thrust fault terrains. The klippe is the remnant portion of a nappe after erosion has removed connecting portions of the nappe. This process results in an outlier of exotic, often nearly horizontally translated strata overlying autochthonous strata.

Nappe : In geology, a nappe or thrust sheet is a large sheetlike body of rock that has been moved more than 2 km (1.2 mi) or 5 km (3.1 mi) above a thrust fault from its original position. Nappes form in compressional tectonic settings like continental collision zones or on the overriding plate in active subduction zones. Nappes form when a mass of rock is forced (or "thrust") over another rock mass, typically on a low angle fault plane. The resulting structure may include large-scale recumbent folds, shearing along the fault plane, imbricate thrust stacks, fensters and klippe.

MCT Windows : A tectonic window (Fenster in German) is a geological structure formed by the erosion or by normal faulting on a thrust system. A huge sheet of rock mass (hanging wall block) that has been transported to a considerable distance by movement along the thrust is called a nappe

New Routes Opened in Ladakh

New Routes for Ladakh 2019

The Government has recently announced the Opening of new Routes in Ladakh in order to promote Tourism in some of the more Offbeat Locations in Ladakh. Some of these Routes have already been used by some Travelers who got a Permit but now its open for all.

This is a welcome step and will help the People living in these Remote areas as they now have the opportunity to make a living from Tourism as well. Also it shows that the Government is a mood to open up new areas in Ladakh, a large part of which still is off limits to the General Public due to the Border disputes we have with our neighbors in the Region. It also signals that relations with China are easing off and hopefully one day the Border disputes wil be settled and the whole of Western Ladakh would be open to the Public.

Below is the Map of the Areas around the Pangong Lake and the Tso Moriri Lake which are mostly covered in the new Routes that are opened. This would also enable greater access to one of the most mind blowing part of Ladakh, the Changthang which extends into Tibet.

And these are the exact details of the Routes that have been opened and they have been Colour marked in the Map at the bottom

1. Merak - Loma Bend via Chushul (Instead of going straight from Chushul to Mahe you go left and get directly to Loma Bend. See Map 2 as well and this Route will take you over the Tsaga La Pass. (Shown in Green Colour)

2. Chushul to Mahe via Kakset La (The official release says Kartasangla but we assume this is an error). This is the direct Route over the Changthang and takes you to Mahe (Shown in Red Colour)

3. Dubruk - Erath - Chusul and then following no.1 Route onwards to Loma bend and then onto Hanle (Shown in Blue) : Instead of the traditional Route from Dubruk to Pangong Tso this Route will take you through the Route almost parallel to that and onwards to Chushul. From Chushul onwards you follow the Route 1 again.

4. Karzok - Nurbo - Sumdo - Parangla - Kazand (Shown in Pink)

The Elusive Kashmir Sapphires

The Elusive Kashmir Sapphires

It was a cold November day of 2015 in Geneva when Ronny Totah got the phone call. It was about a Sapphire coming up for auction. And not any ordinary Sapphire, it was the finest Sapphire known to exist, the elusive Kashmir Sapphire. The bidding for this Sapphire would open at just 12 million Dollars and this was an invitation to Ronny Totah to attend a viewing of the Sapphire in New York before the bidding. The description and details sounded hauntingly familiar.

The Kashmir Sapphire Bracelet that was stolen from the Four Seasons in Milan in 1996

If someone knew the value of a Kashmir Sapphire and as someone who could afford it, Ronny Totah, the partner in the Jewellery House, Horovitz and Totah was the man. But the phone call got Ronny thinking about an incident that took place 20 years ago from that date. Horovitz and Torah had an exclusive Kashmir Sapphire set in a Cartier bracelet which was supposed to be put up in an auction exclusively of Cartier pieces. And a few days before the Auction some of the pieces were put up on display at the exclusive Four Seasons Hotel in Milan. It was the November of 1996. On the fateful day there were 50 people in the Exhibition Hall and the unthinkable happened. The Cartier bracelet with the Kashmir Sapphire disappeared. Seemingly into thin air it seemed. At that time.  

A Pic of the Sapphire Mine by LaTouche

So where did these exclusive Kashmir Sapphires come from ? Like with all famous precious stones there are several versions to this story. A popular version goes like this. A Group of Lahouli traders turned at a Jewelers shop in Shimla and what caught the Jewelers eye were the brilliant Blue Sapphires they had to offer. And of course the Lahouli traders were averse to stating the exact origin of the Stones for obvious reasons. On being further pressed for information they conceded that they got the stones from the Mountains on the border with Zanskar. And apparently they didn't know the exact location as they in turn had got the Stones from a Shikari who had lost his flint. And he wanted to light his smoke. So he looked around for a quartz or a hard stone and found a blue stone which served his purpose rather well. He decided to carry it and later on gave it to one of the Lahouli traders. Even Shikari saab wasn't too sure where he found the Stones.

A Pic of the Apparatus used for Mining by LaTouche

But the news of the Blue Sapphires spread in Shimla and soon a few more stones turned and sooner rather than later the news wafted across and reached the the ears of the Maharajah in who’s realm these Stones originated. And he got his men working. Soon it was heard that the Stones had their origin in Padar, a Valley along the Chenab which bordered Himachal on one side and Zanskar on the other side. But initially it was mistaken as Padam instead of Padar so guys turned up in Padam in Zanskar looking for the whereabouts of the source of these priceless stones. But finally Padar was identified as the source and a body of Maharaja’s soldiers were dispatched to secure the Mine for the Maharaja of Jammu and Kashmir or the “Maharaja of Kashmir” as was more commonly known and hence the Sapphires got a name. The Kashmir Sapphires.

An unknown Trekker sitting in front of one of the Mine Shafts in the 80’s.

It was in 1882 when the Mine was secured and samples sent to the Indian Museum, where the experts were also astonished at the quality of these Sapphires. They were by far the best Sapphires that were ever seen. This was Music to the ears of the Maharaja and soon large scale mining of the Kashmir Sapphire started and it was soon on the wishlist of all the Maharajas and the Mem Saabs in the summer capital of British India, Simla. But exactly 5 years down the line after reaping great benefits the Mines seem to run out of Sapphires and the operation became unprofitable.

Gulabgarh, the main Village in Padar and the last Roadhead.

The Maharaja was alarmed and he invited experts from the Geological Survey of India to visit the Mines and give their expert advice. Tom D Latouche, the Deputy Superintendent of the Geological Survey of India led the team. And they managed to reach the Mines but not without some difficulty as the are to this day doesn't have Roads or Electricity and a 5 day walk apparently from the nearest Road head. He noted that the deposits in the Main Mine were almost exhausted and there was Mining activity a 100 meters below the main on the Valley floor. However the Sapphires from this location were inferior in quality to the Sapphires at the main Mine. However they did a study over a couple of months and made a detailed Report to the Maharaja. But it did nothing revive the Mining operations as the profitability was down as it seems the place had run out of Sapphires. Simple.

Typical topography of the area where the Sapphire Mines are located

Mining operations were shut down completely in 1889 till 1905 though Poachers would sometimes hit upon the Mines. In 1906 the Mines were leased out to a private Company  who mined for 2 years without much success. And so the story carried on with a new Company / Individual taking the lease every few years and then walking out as it was just too costly because of the inhospitable terrain and overall remoteness. After Independence JK Minerals took the Mines and again a number of classified Surveys and Mappings were done of the area. But nothing much came out of it. Every few years the Government of Jammu and Kashmir comes out with a new Scheme to lease out the Mines but nothing really happens knowing the dysfunctionality of my State.

Sumcham, the last Village on the trail that leads to the Hagshu La and into Zanskar

In the meanwhile the Mines are Guarded by the Police and are strictly off limits for everyone. Well almost everyone if you know what I mean. No one is simply allowed in the area and though you will find the location on the Internet I have purposely left out the exact location and details of the Mines. People who need to know already know it. Anyways its off limits so nothing much can be done even if you know the place. I will let it rest at that.

Hence the value of Kashmir Sapphires has only gone up and few are seen outside of Museums and Private collections. They are simply not found anymore.

Kashmir Sapphires in ready as well as raw form.

Ah and coming back to Ronny. After going through more details Ronny was convinced this is the same Kashmir Sapphire which was stolen in Milan. Though reduced in Caratage (thieves normally do that and alter the shape of the Stone for obvious reasons) the characteristics mentioned in the certificate were exactly like his Stone. The Stone was withdrawn from the Auction but Ronny didnt stop there. Though he got insurance amount of around 1.8 Million dollars in 1996 after the Theft but he needed the culprits to be caught. As we speak now Ronny is fighting out in the Courts with present owners to get viewing of the Kashmir Sapphire and have it verified by independent experts. More on that when something happens.

Coming back to the Kashmir Sapphires and this is what a Gemologist says about them  “The Sapphires of Kashmir form an exclusive class of their own. In the Jewel trade it is customary to attach the appellation 'Kashmir' to any fine Sapphire regardless of its geographical origin. This is an indication of the outstanding qualities of Kashmir Sapphires. The colour of these Sapphires resembles the beautiful hue of the peacock's neck. Even a small concentration of that fine colour illuminates the entire structure of the Gem.”

The Elusive Kashmir Sapphires

Thang : India's most Northernly Village

Right at the Line of Control. At the River bend lies the fence.

Thang : India's Most Northerly Village 

The "Northernmost Village of India" as an Indian Army proclamation states there. On the banks of the Shyok.

The patch of green on the right is the Village of Thang. The Village lies a few kms beyond Turtuk and you cross Tyakashi Village to get to this point. To go beyond Turtuk you need permission from the Army and after that this is the Northernmost that the Army lets you get to. The Mountain heights on the right of the Shyok are all territory in Pakistani control. You can see a fence which denotes the LOC and 100 meters on each side are No Mans Land.

The best part is that a certain Gentleman over there even gives you a guided Tour and shows you stuff like the fence, Indian Army bunkers, Pakistan Army bunkers, Pakistani Flags on the Peaks as they dominate the heights. Quite revealing. And the best part is that you are allowed to take Pics and Videos. All authorized by the Indian Army.

Apricots at Thang Village

Going to Thang Village is not allowed except for the locals. And pesky little fellows who come with all sorts of excuses to be let into the Village, a beautiful one with Apricot, Walnut and Apple laden Trees. And from where you see the Village of Phorbu across the LOC. And nothing separates this Village from the other side besides certain Landmines. ;)

Looking across the LOC from Thang

On a personal level I actually find it good that the Army is slowly opening up areas which were otherwise no go for civilians. It reflects a higher degree of confidence and maybe we can look forward to more areas being opened up. Areas about which I have read since I was a kid. Maybe the Changchenmo or DBO or Siachen or Aksai Chin or Depsang.

The Green patch in the distance at the bottom of the Mountains is the first Village, Phranu on the other side.

Pic from last week. Thang, Ladakh

The Tiger Leaping Rock

The Tiger Leaping Rock in the Middle of the Gorge, Tiger Leaping Gorge, Yunnan

The Tiger Leaping Rock

I first heard of the Tiger Leaping Gorge while watching Palin's Himalayas. The Tiger Leaping Gorge was the Easternmost place that Palin visited in the epic Journey.

This is the legendary Tiger Leaping Rock right in the middle of the Tiger Leaping Gorge. This rock forces the Jinsha or the Upper Yangtze through a 10 meter wide corridor. It was dry season when I took this pic but in the rainy season it's a sight to behold and it seems the whole earth trembles due to the force of the water as it squeezes through this narrow corridor.

A view from above of the Tiger Leaping Rock with the viewing Platform, Tiger Leaping Gorge, Yunnan

In the rainy season the whole 13 meter rock rumbles under the pressure of all the water furiously trying to make it's way down. It's really a spectacle when a River more than half a mile wide if forced through a channel just a few meters wide thanks to the rock.

As per the story told by Palin the Gorge got it's name from the story of Tiger which jumped across the Yangtze while being chased by a hunter. The Tiger jumped into this rock and then across the the River to the other side. Hence the name Tiger Leaping Gorge.

The point at which the Jinsha or the Upper Yangtze enters the Tiger Leaping Gorge under the shadow of the Haba Snow Mountain, Tiger Leaping Gorge, Yunnan

And on the other side are Peaks which have a vertical elevation of almost 4000 m from the level at which the water flows. To put it into perspective this Canyon is more than twice the height of the Grand Canyon in the US. The level of the River flow is at an altitude of around 1800 m and its surrounded by Peaks touching almost 6000 m. These are the Hengduan Mountains which form the Eastern edge of the Tibetan Plateau.

Those little bells with the red tags are good luck charms that the local Naxi people use to tie to honor the spirits of their ancestors.

The statue of the Leaping Tiger, Tiger Leaping Gorge, Yunnan

This place, if you understand the significance and the geography that went into it makes the hair stand on the back of your neck. Its where Tibet meets South Asia and China. No wonder it's a UNESCO designated World Heritage Site under the Three Parallel Rivers of Yunnan Protected Area. The three of the mightiest rivers of Asia, the Yangtze, the Salween and the Mekong cutting across the jagged Peaks of the Hengduan Mountains around this area.

This place was opened to foreigners only in the 1990's and now attracts Mountain lovers from all over the World who want to witness the epic scenery that the place offers.

Spectacular.

Pic from January 2017. The Tiger Leaping Gorge, Deqen Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, Western Yunnan, China

The Changthang

The Changthang.

A place of immense beauty amidst desolation of the Tibetan Plateau. A place devoid of most human in habitation except for the Pashmina Goat rearing Changpas. With an average altitude of above 4000m it stretched from Tibet into Ladakh.

The Changthang is home surprisingly to a large number of wildlife species including the Snow Leopard, the Tibetan Wild Ass, the Chiru etc. The legendary Indus flows through the Changthang and it includes a number of wetlands and marshes which attract migratory birds such as the Black Necked Crane and the Bar Headed Geese.

The Changthang always fascinated the Western Explorers few of whom ever stepped into its splendid isolation. The unpredictable weather, the Artic conditions in the Winters and the paucity if human in habitation didnt help either.

I happened the drive from Pangong Lake to the Tso Moriri, two Lakes which lie within the Changthang. And to keep it simple it was one of the most beautiful places I have ever been to. The legendary Changthang. The home of the Changpa who produce the finest Pashmina bearing Goats. Pashm which for centuries bought neighbouring Kingdoms to War with each other.

Pic from this week. Some where on the Changthang between Pangong Tso and Tso Moriri.

Shyok : The River of Death

The vast flood plain where the Shyok meets the Nubra

Shyok : The River of Death

The Shyok. A wild River which rises in the Rimo Glacier which is one of the branches of the Siachen Glacier in the Karakorams and and its one of the biggest Glacial systems in the Trans Himalayas. The Glacier is more famous for the dubious distinction of being the highest battlefield in the World.

That the name of this River rising from this Glacier means “The River of Death” in the Ladakhi/ Yarkandi language is rather a matter of coincidence and does not stem from the same reference. It comes from the fact that during the journey North from Leh towards Yarkand in Central Asia the River had to be crossed multiple times. In fact for the Winter route the Shyok had to be crossed a total of 22 times. But the upside was that it was comparatively the easiest to cross in the Winters. Many Men and pack animals were swept away by this River and hence it ended up with the notorious name and a deadly reputation. Thankfully nowadays there are many Bridges over the River which enables one to cross over safely.

An unamed Tributary coming down to meet the Shyok

From its point of origin the Shyok the River flows in a Southerly direction and is joined by the Galwan and the Chang Chenmo Rivers. In this area the Shyok forms a boundary between Ladakh and Tibet. And then the River takes a u turn and starts flowing North from somewhere before the Village of Shyok. This has been attributed to the fact that the Shyok flows through one of the main Tectonic fault lines that separates the Himalayas from the Karakorams. The Shyok is still considered the landmark that demarcates between the two mightiest Ranges in the World. So when you descend from the Khardung La the Mountains you see beyond the River are the Karakorams.

Strangely the whole area through which the Shyok flows beyond Khalsar is referred to as the Nubra Valley where as the Nubra is a just a tributary which joins the Shyok in vast flood plain just before the Village of Diskit. Like the Shyok also rises in the wilds of the Karakorams / Trans Himalayas and heads South like all good Rivers do but the same phenomenon which causes the Shyok to take a U turn compels the Nubra to also join along the Shyok.

The point at which the Shyok enters Pakistan controlled territory across the LOC in what used to be Baltistan.

And the Shyok continues its journey North as it enters what was historically the region of Baltistan somewhere before the Village of Turtuk which is well known Tourist destination now. And beyond Turtuk it passes Tyakashi and finally the last Village on this side of the LOC Thang and then flows into Pakistan controlled territory.

Once there it is further joined by the Shigar River which carries the glacial waters from the Baltoro and the Biafo Glaciers. It passes by the town of Khapalu and finally merges with the Indus at Keris, a town to the East of Skardu. A total journey of around 550 kms through some of the most hotly contested border areas between India, China and Pakistan. From the Siachen to the being the dividing line between India and China to again heading up the LOC at the head of the Nubra Valley. Its almost the like the nomenclature “The River of Death” has a new context. A much deadlier one.

One can now travel almost 190 kms along the length of the River from the Village of Shyok all the way upto Thang at the LOC. Like I did last week and the River of Death was in all its fury especially where the Valley became narrower. And we had a narrow escape when a landslide hit just a few minutes as we were driving along the River. If it would have hit us we would have been swept away into the wild Shyok and the River would have again lived upto its reputation.

Posting a Video which was shot the next day when the Road open after crews came in from the Thoise Airport to remove the landslide debris. The next day also when we reached Men and Machine were hard at work to remove the last of the debris. The Video was shot as we waited for the all clear to cross affected part.

Next time you are there do pay your respects to the Shyok, the River of Death

The Best of Kashmir in Pics

The Hazratbal Shrine besides the Dal Lake

A Collection of some of the best pics showcasing the beauty of Kashmir. Truly "Paradise on Earth"

The Pir Panjals as seen from Rajbagh in Srinagar

The Jamia Masjid in Down Town Srinagar

Sun comes out after a day of Snowfall in Gulmarg. The Apharwat Mountain glistens

The Jehlum as it flows down Srinagar. The Shankaracharya Hill with the Temple in the background.

A Horse drinks at the Pond at the ruins of the Temples at Naranag

Somewhere in the Jungles above Bandipora

Near the Dachigam National Park

Shikaras on the Dal Lake during a Snowfall

The Dal Lake

In full bloom in Gulmarg

The Rani Temple in Gulmarg with Mt.Haramukh in the background

The Lidder River near Pahalgam

The Karakorams in India

The Karakorams as seen from a flight coming into land at Leh.

The Karakorams in India

The Karakoram, with its named derived from the Turkic word "Kara' meaning Black and "Koram" meaning Gravel. These impenetrable Mountains were seen as citadels and Towers of black gravel by the Central Asians and hence the name. They were also referred to as the Muztagh which meant Ice Mountain by the Western Explorers as well. The term Muztagh is now used to denote the sub Ranges of the Karakorams. As per some historians they were referred to as the “Krishnagiris” in the Puranas.

The Sasser Kangri Group and other Peaks of the Karakorams as seen from the Khardung La (Pass)

The Karakorams extend right from the Aksai Chin in the East to the Wakhan Corridor in the West and has other great Mountain Ranges like the Himalayas, the Hindu Kush, the Pamirs and the Kun Lun as its neighbors. It runs app. 550 kms from East to West starting at the Saser Muztagh in the East to the Batura Muztagh in the Hunza District.

The Confluence of the Shyok and the Nubra. The Karakorams on the other side of the confluence.

Its Southern boundary is defined by the Gilgit, Indus and the Shyok Rivers which separate it from the Himalayan Range in the South. Infact in the Nubra Valley the Shyok River plays the boundary between the Himalayan Range and the Karakorams. In the North its the Karakash and the Yarkand Rivers which separate it from the Pamirs and the Kun Luns. The Karakorams actually lie right in the Center of the Great Himalayan Mountain Complex bounded by Ranges which are unparalleled in their sheer verticality. All these Ranges have Peaks exceeding 7000m which are not found in any other region on the Planet.

The Karakorams in the background of the Buddha Statue at Diskit in Nubra Valley

Broadly this most vertical of all the Mountain Ranges is subdivided into the following sub Ranges though experts differ on this aspect. The nine sub Ranges are as under

Sasser Muztagh
Rimo Muztagh
Siachen Muztagh
Baltoro Muztagh
Mashebrum Muztagh
Panmah Muztagh
Hispar Muztagh
Spantik Sosbun Muztagh
Rakaposhi Haramosh Muztagh
Batura Muztagh

Unnamed Karakoram Peaks along the Nubra Valley

Contrary to the popular perceptions a sizeable part of the Karakorams lies in territory well under Indian control though being in a sensitive border region most of it is off limits to Civilians and even climbing Expeditions to this area as the one carried out by the Himalayan Club and led by our Vice President, the acclaimed Mountaineer Divyesh Muni need various special permissions to visit these areas. Of the sub Ranges the Sasser Muztagh, the Rimo Muztagh and the Siachen Muztagh lie well within Indian held territory. Even a substantial part of the Baltoro Muztagh is within this territory. In Fact of the 10 highest Peaks in Indian territory (excluding the ones in Occupied territory) lie in the Karakorams. And three of these lie in the Sasser Massif and belong to the Sasser Kangri family. Infact these are clearly visible from the top of the Khardung if you look towards the North.

The Great First Bend of the Yangtze River

The Great First Bend of the River Yangtze

The Great Bend of the Yangtze at Shigu : This is the famous Great Bend of the Yangtze at Shigu. At first appearance its just a River bend but if you know enough then you would be awed in the fact how this place has shaped human history. The beautiful Jinsha or the Upper Yangtze just after it takes that famous first bend and turns 180 degrees and starts flowing North.

Of all the Great Rivers rising in the Himalayas and Trans Himalayas, besides the one we are familiar with ie the Indus, the Ganga and the Brahmaputra, the others like the Salween, the Irrawady, the Mekong and the Yangtze all meet the Oceans to the South of the Himalayas.

All except one. The mighty Yangtze. It's at this point precisely that the Yangtze decides to do a u turn and go North. All the other parallel Rivers in this area, the Salween, the Irrawady and the Mekong go South. Due to some geological phenomenon connected with the tectonic events which took place when the Indian plate collided with the Eurasian plate and this was the meeting point. Of all the great rivers rising in the Great Himalaya system the Yangtze is the only one which meets the Ocean to the North of the Himalaya.

From Michael Palin's Himalayas:

"A thousand miles of tumbling water heading for Vietnam and the Gulf of Tonkin is, within a few hundred yards, spun round to the north and, though it twists and turns and tries to find its way south again, it is now effectively a Chinese river, heading east to create the enormous bowl of fertility and prosperity that is the heart and soul of the Middle Kingdom".

The Yangtze Rive Basin is home to 500 million people or a third of the the population of China. Both historically and today, it is responsible for much of the wildlife, culture and economic wellbeing of China.

To stand at the first bend is quite a mind numbing affair if you understand how this simple turn of a river has effected the historyof Humankind. The Himalaya effects human history in more ways than we can ever comprehend.

The Karakoram Anomaly

The Karakoram Anomaly

In this time and age of Global warming and changes in the overall global weather patterns one of the most established fact is the shrinking of the Polar Ice Caps and the reduction of Glaciers in the Glacial non Polar Regions of the World.

We have seen the the alarming consequences closer to home with the shrinking of Glaciers in the Himalayan Regions especially in the Central Himalayas. But there is one Region which defies this Global trend and the Glaciers have actually remained the same or have actually increased. This Region is the extreme Western Part of the Himalayas and mainly in the Karakorams.

This my friends is called the Karakoram Anomaly and it has baffled leading scientists for some time now. How the Karakorams buck the trend of Glacial reduction is still to be answered in all its nuances. However some reasons have been attributed to be the cause of this Anomaly.

Firstly unlike the main Himalayan Range which gets a bulk of its precipitation (in the form of Rain in the lower reaches and in the form of Snow in the higher reaches) in the Summer season thanks to the Monsoon the Karakoram remains largely dry during the season. The Himalayas block the Monsoon and at the same time block the heat from the Indian Plains to get to the Karakorams. The Karakorams on the other hand get most of their precipitation in the Winters and most of it in the form of Snow with the clouds coming in from Central Asia and the Western disturbance.

Also a few degrees change in temperature would not really affect the snowfall in the Karakoram Range in the Winters however the same change would have drastic effects for the Himalayan Glaciers in the Summers. As the Snow would be less and Rain would be more. And people who have lived in snowy Regions would understand how Rain cuts through Snow and Ice.

Another theory purported is that the Glaciers of the Karakorams have a large amount of debris built up over the ages. A thick layer of debri which turns the top Ice of the Glacier into a dark colour attracts more heat and accelerates Glacial melt. However if the debris are thicker they actually act as insulators and preserve the Ice underneath.

Yet another Theory being put out there is the fact that the lowest areas of the Karakorams are now cultivated at a larger scale then at any time in the past. This insinuates the use of a larger amount of water for cultivation and this leads to more moisture in the atmosphere and hence more precipitation in the area creating a different microclimate in the area.

Personally I see the first theory making the most sense though the other two also make sense. And I assume it's a mixture of all the above stated factors.

Hopefully one day Scientists will find out the exact reason for the Karakoram Anomaly.

Till then we can probably take some solace in the fact that the Glaciers in at least one Region are not shrinking.

A pic of the Drang Drung Glacier of the Great Himalayan Range. Pic from April 2018. On a flight from Delhi to Leh
 

La Dvags : Ladakh The Land of Passes

La - Dvags  : Ladakh, The Land of Passes

Ladakh, the word comes from the derivation of the of the Tibetan word for the region “La Dvags” which literally means  the Land of Passes. Of course there are N number of Passes within Ladakh so we try and enumerate the Passes which connect Ladakh with its neighbouring Regions and well as the Passes within Ladakh connecting the different areas in Ladakh.

To the South

Zoji La (3505 m) : The most famous of all the Passes and also one of the lowest altitude Passes in the Great Himalayan Range. Its motorable for almost 7 months in the years

Bhotkol Pass/ Lonvilad Gali (4200m) : A Pass between Suru starting from Panikhar and Warwan Valley. Also called the Salt Route in the days of the old. Also connects to the Lidder Valley through the Gulol Pass. 

Shafat La : Another Pass between Suru and Warwan Valley in Kishtwar. The Pass lies beyond the Shafat Glacier at the base of the Nun Kun

Chilung La (5294 m) : A Pass between Zanskar  and the Marwah Valley in Kishtwar

Omasi La : (5590 m) : The Omasi La (5590m) trek is a lesser known trek in the Indian Himalayas. The trek begins from the village of Gulabgarh on the J&K - Himachal Border. The areas has been closed for many years after the insurgency began in Kashmir 

Hagshu La : 

Poat La (5490 m) : Poat La 5490 m/18011 ft consider to be one of the highest passes in whole of Himalaya and the Sersank pass a.k.a. Shiv Shankar La 5130 m / 16,830 ft located at the head of Lugai Nala, 

Kang La : (5468 m) : The Kang La was the traditional route used by Lahaulis(people from Lahaul) to cross over into Zanskar and on to Ladakh.

Shinkun La : Connects Zanskar with Lahaul in the south. A Motorable Road is now being built here.

Baralacha La (4892 m) : I guess everyone has heard of this one. Motorable for 6 months

Parang La : Connects Spiti with Ladakh through Rupshu

Long Lacha La :  Connected Ladakh with Rampur Bushahr ?

Thung Lung La : Connected Ladakh with Rampur Bushahr ?

To the North

Khardung La (5615m ?) : One of the highest Motorable Passes in the World and connects the Indus Valley to the Nubra Valley.

Sasser La (5411 m) : A Pass in the Karakorams on the old Leh Yarkand Route towards Central Asia.

Karakoram La : Ahead of the Sasser La is the Karakoram Pass. A Strategic Pass where Ladakh meets Turkestan (Xinijang)

To the West

Fotu La (4108 m) : It is a Pass which connect Leh with the Kargil Region (Purig). Fully Motorable and open almost throughout the Year.

Namika La (3719 m) : It is a Pass which connect Leh with the Kargil Region (Purig). Fully Motorable and open almost throughout the Year.

Chorbat La (5145 m) : A Pass which connected Skardu to Leh via Khaplu and the Nubra Valley over the Khardung La

Marpo La (5353) : In the Drass Sector on the Line of Control

Kaobal La : Connects Drass in Ladakh to the Gurez Valley through Muskoh. Motorable but restricted for Civilians

To the East

Chang La (5360 m) : Connects the Leh area with the Changthang.

Marsimik La (5582 m)

OTHER PASSES

Ane La : The Easternmost of the Passes listed here. Lead towards the Changthang Wildlife Sanctuary from beyond Pangong Tso

Charchar La : This Pass connects Zangla to Sumdo in the Zanskar Valley

Digar La : This Pass connects Leh with Agham in the Nubra Valley. An alternative for Khardung La 

Horlam La : Connects Tso Moriri and Karzok to Debring on the Manali Leh Road and comes after the Kartse La

Kakset La  :  This Pass connects Chusul to Mahe in Chumathang Valley

Kangla Jal La 

Kanji La : Connects Rangdum to Henasku in the Indus Valley along the Leh Kargil Road

Kartse La :  Connects Tso Moriri and Karzok to Debring on the Manali Leh Road after further crossing the Panguangu La.

Kiagar La : Connects the Kiagar Tso to Puga Sumdo.

Lachulung La (5059 m) : A Pass on the main Manali Leh Highway after the Baralacha La and before the More Plains

Lamzo La : This Pass connects Lukung on the banks of the Tso Moriri to Changra in the Changthang.

Lenak La : This Pass connects Hanle to Chumur

Lumkang La (5769 m) : A Pass in the Changthang close to Chamkang and Nischu

Namshang La (4960 m)

Marang La : This Pass connects Sangtha in Lower Markha Valley to Sutak in Zanskar

Panguangu La : This Pass connects Niyar by the Tso Kar to Debring on the Manali Leh Road

Parpi La : This Pass connects Pidma to Lingshet in the Zanskar Valley. 

Pensi La (4400 m) : This Pass connects the Zanskar Valley with the Suru Valley.

Phitse La : This Pass comes after Shinku La on the way to Zanskar from Lahaul. Would be connected by Motorable Road in the coming future.

Pogmar La : This Pass connects Pang to Sanghta in the Lower Markha Valley

Polokong Ka La (5000 m) : This Pass connects Puga Sumdo to Nilyar by the Tso Kar.

Rubarung La : This Pass connects Tilut Sumdo in the Zanskar Valley to Hankar in Markha Valley.

Salsal La : Connects Nayoma to Chumur passing by the Chilling Tso and the Kyun Tso after coming through the Thit Zarbo Pass.

Singe La : This Pass connects Nerag in the Zanskar Valley to the Indus Valley at Hanupatta.

Tanglang La (5359m): Another famous Pass which connects the More Plains with the Indus Valley and on the main Manali Leh Highway.

Telekon La : This Pass connects Tangleb on the banks of the Tso Moriri to Pang on the Manali Leh Highway. 

Thit Zarbo La : Connects Nayoma to Chumur passing by the Chilling Tso and the Kyun Tso after further crossing the Salsal La

Umba La : This Pass connects the Drass Valley with the Suru Valley and bypasses Kargil

Umling La (5883 m)

Wakha La : The Pass after Kanji La which connects Rangdum in Zanskar to Henasku in the Indus Valley on the main Leh Kargil Road.

Wari La (5300 m): Connects Karu on the Leh Manali Road to Agham in the Nubra Valley.

Yar La : Connects Sangtha in Lower Markha Valley to Khurna in the Markha Valley.

Zalung Karpo La (5200m) : Connects the Indus Valley with the Markha Valley

Kishtwar : At the Himalayan Crossroads

Kishtwar : At The Himalayan Crossroads

Kishtwar today is just a district in the Jammu Division of the state of Jammu and Kashmir. It borders the Kashmir Valley on one side, Doda on the other, Zanskar in the North, Chamba in the South. It has been noticed by some hard core mainly foreign Monatineers in the past and even recently for the great climbing opportunities it offers in the Kishtwar Himalayas.

Ok coming to what I wanted to write about. The Great Himalayan Range and its related Ranges stretch from the Pamir Knot down to the Hengduan Mountains in North Western Kunming. Besides all the ethnic and cultural variety there are also a variety of Religions practiced in these Mountains. Since Religion is a hot topic of debate and discussion and even derision on the Himalayan Club I decided to write on a subject related to it. To me the Religion of a place carries as much value as the ethnicity or the culture or the language does.

In the Himalayas there is the basic presence of three of our great religions. In the Western and Northern part of the Western Himalayas it is Islam which dominates. However beyond the Himalayas in the North its Buddhism. Towards the Eastern and Southern Part of the Western Himalayas it is Hinduism. And of course Buddhism in the Trans Himalayan reaches. The Central Himalayas are a stronghold of Hinduism stretching all the way across to Sikkim. But again as a feature seen earlier its Buddhism which dominates the higher Himalayas and the Trans Himalayas. Beyond Sikkim its predominantly Buddhism which is the majority religion.

Its in Kishtwar that the three belief systems merge and hence it gives unique place in the Himalayas. The majority population follows Islam, a large minority follows Hinduism and a very small minority of Buddhists also exist in Kishtwar. Its in the upper reaches of Padar (which used to be called Paldar by the Ladakhis / Tibetans) that there are exist Buddhist villages which follow the same Tibetan Buddhist traditions that are followed across the Great Himalayan divide in Zanskar. Infact in some of these Villages in Kishtwar there still exists an animal which is associated more with Ladakh or Tibet ie the Yak. In the Padar Region in the upper reaches along the Machail River there are the twin hamlets of Halo and Hango on the left side of the Machail River and the Villages of Lossaini, Dangali, Scham and Jashari which are all Buddhist Villages.

Towards the south bordering Doda and Chamba are a majority of Hindus contiguous with the populations to the South. The main Kishtwar town and to the North of it are majority Muslim population many of whom have actually come in from adjoining areas in Kashmir. In Fact the Kashmiri spoken by the people in the Warwan Valley, which is a part of Kishtwar, is supposed to be the purest form of Kashmiri as it was spoken in the olden days. The Warwan Valley runs parallel to the Suru Valley in Ladakh separated by the Great Himalayan Range itself.

Kishtwar is first referred to in the Rajatarangini by the ancient name Kashthavata, during the reign of Raja Kalsa of Kashmir (1063–1089), when "Uttamaraja", the ruler of Kashthavata visited the court of the Kashmir King in company with several other hill chiefs to pay their respects to the Raja.  

It was more or less an independent Hill Kingdom ruled by Rajput Hill Rajas as was the norm in the region. The Royal family had supposedly descended from the Royal family of Suket.

However subsequently a part of it also became a part of the Western Tibetan Kingdom and the one of the Kings divided his Kingdom between his sons and they got Zanskar, Purig and Kishtwar as separate Kingdoms. However in the absence of any written historical records of history of the Region the timelines are just approximate guesses and due to the Geography of the region it is well possible that a part of Kishtwar was under the Rajput Hindu Rajas and the more higher and remote areas like Padar was under the rule of Ladakhi/ Tibetan Rajas.

In the 17th Century the Rajas of Kishtwar converted to Islam so did a large part of the population. But in an odd adaption the Rajas, though Muslims by religion, had Hindu Rajput names and this continued till the 1820 when it was captured by Raja Gulab Singh, a vassal of Maharaja Ranjit Singh. The name of the last ruling was Raja Muhammed Teg Singh s/o Raja Inayatullah Singh. The campaign for the capture of the Kingdoms of Kishtwar, Reasi and Arnos was carried on by none other than General Zorawar Singh who subsequently became the Governor of these erstwhile Kingdoms and it was from here that he planned his invasions of Ladakh, Baltistan and Tibet. And one of his main Officers, Col Mehta Basti Ram, of the well known Mehta clan of Kishtwar, who campaigned fearlessly with General Zorawar Singh in all his Campaigns. After the death of General Zorawar Singh and the subsequent signing of the Treaty of Chusul, it was Col Mehta Basti Ram who became the first Governor of Ladakh.

As of today this most beautiful part (arguably) of Himalayas lies mostly unknown to outsiders except a few adventure seekers. Lying in the shadow of Kashmir and Ladakh but a part of Jammu that can give both these places more than a run for their money just with its amazing Geographical and Cultural diversity.