Around the Hari Parbat Hill

The Hari Parbat Fort as seen from the Badamwari below

The imposing Hari Parbat Fort. The present Fort was built by the Durrani Afghans in 1808 though originally the fortifications around the hill were built during the reign of Akbar who wanted to make a new capital here. I did some explorations around the Fort two weeks back and found some interesting things around. The original Fortification wall built by the Mughals still exist in parts around the lower parts of the Hill.

The most fascinating fact was that there was a tunnel from the Fort which led one to the shores of the Pokhribal Lake, an extension of the Nigeen Lake, right from the top of the Fort. The Tunnel entrance is still there at the Pokhribal Lake. Also a ventilation hole around 10 ft is still preserved in the Badamwari Garden. The Tunnel is now blocked so the secret passage way cannot be explored further. The Hill also holds the Shrine of Makhdoom Sahib such encompasses various historical structures of the Mughal Era, as well as the Sharika Devi Temple and the Chatti Padshahi Gurudwara.

The Akhun Mullah Mosque on the Hari Parbat

An alternate view of Srinagar old Town. As seen from above the Mosque of Akhun Mullah Shah near Makhdoom Sahib a little way up from the Kathi Darawaza. This little Mosque was erected by Dara Shikoh in attractive grey limestone to honor his tutor Akhun Mullah Shah. The Mosque was built in 1649 AD and it has a stone lotus over it's pulpit, the only one of its kind in Kashmir. Another little architectural gem of Kashmir. In the background is visible the Shankaracharya Hill with the Shankaracharya Temple, another gem that was made in the 7th century AD.

Massive Chinars overlooking the Srinagar city in the compound of the Akhun Mulla Mosque

The Chatti Padshahi Gurudwara as seen from the Hari Parbat

The Chatti Padshahi Gurudwara, one of the most revered Gurudwaras in the state of Jammu and Kashmir, in Srinagar as seen from the Akhun Mullah Shah Mosque. This Gurudwara is situated in the Rainawari locality near the Kathi Darawaza on the foot of the Hari Parbat. It is associated with the Sixth Guru who is supposed to have roamed around in the Valley spreading the message of Guru Nanak Dev ji.

Pokhribal Lake a part of the Nigeen Lake and the Lepers Colony behind it

The Boat Club at Pokhribal Lake at Srinagar

This pic was taken from the top of the now in ruins outerwall of the Hari Parbat Fort. The water body that you see here is called Pokhribal and it's an extension of the Nigeen Lake. Underneath the massive Chinars is a Shamshan Ghat run by the Ahle Singham, a local Sikh Group. The shed is where they cremate the bodies.

The White building is the Boat Club though there surely wasn't much boating happening and the place looked derelict. Just a few guys using the pier for trying to catch a fish on their improvised fishing rods. The White structure across the Lake is a water treatment plant or something on those lines.

Behind the plant there are old buildings and a big old Hospital. This is Kashmir's Leper Colony. This isolated spot was where all the Lepers in the state were kept. Due to ignorance Lepers were shunned and were forced to live in isolation over here. In time they married amongst themselves and had families. Now three generations of the Lepers families live here. The Lepers are still provided daily / monthly rations. Generally people tend to stay away from this place.

Next time will surely visit the Leper Colony. It's a place time and people forgot. And of course the pic has the Zabarwan, the Lakes, the Chinars and all other things usually associated with Kashmir.

A Family home and its field by the banks of the Pokhribal Lake. On the right you can see the Tunnel which linked the Lake to the Fort on the top of the Hill

An massive old Chinar by the Pokhribal Lake with an ancient structure. Next to the Chinar is a crematorium used by the Sikh families living in this area.

A view of the Nigeen Lake in the foreground and the Dal Lake in the background with the Zabarwan Mountains in the background.

The Jamia Masjid in downtown Srinagar as seen from the Hari Parbat

The Jamia Masjid in the Nowhatta area of Srinagar surrounded by the old part of Srinagar. This beautiful Mosque is one of the largest Mosques in Kashmir and has a capacity of well over 30,000. It was built in 1394 AD by a Sultan of the Shah Miri Dynasty. It is a beautiful piece of Architecture indeed though few outsiders visit this place. This was clicked from the Mosque of Akhun Mullah Shah above the Kathi Darwaza both of which are ASI designated monuments and again are beautiful examples of Islamic Architecture. 

The Pir Panjals in the background of Srinagar city as seen from the Akhun Mullah Mosque

The "Outsider" Kashmiris

The Outsider Kashmiris

Kashmir has for centuries has fascinated people from all around attracted by the sublime climate, the scenic settings and the genial people. Its not for nothing that its the most fabled (and the largest I might add) of the Valleys that nestle in the Himalayas. And for the same reason it had an attraction and many Conquerors, Adventurers and Refugees sought respite in this Valley. Of course most of you would be familiar with more than famous couplet by Amir Khusrau “Gar firdaus bar-rue zamin ast, hami asto, hamin asto, hamin ast.”

Of course my bias towards Kashmir is apparent to anyone who follows my Posts. Thats natural as I come from Kashmir and still spend substantial time in the Valley in spite of what I call the “Troubles” like they did in Northern Ireland. Its a complicated place with a complicated History and complicated problems. And that's all I say about that. The “Troubles” I mean.

Today I would like to talk about an aspect that not many know about. Its about people who came from outside and made the Valley their home. They didn't always arrive voluntarily and they didn't always arrive in the best of conditions. But in the end they added another flavor to the Bouquet called Kashmir. For the sake of privacy I will not mention the the names or the family names but just give you an idea on their background and how they ended up in Kashmir. And now all these people are very much a part of Kashmir. I will for the sake of convenience mention three instances of people from outside Kashmir who are now a part of the Kashmiri fabric.

The first one is about the Architect from Dubrovnik in present day Croatia but in those days a part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. The Architect was commissioned by a Maharajah in present day Gujurat to design and build his Palace. The Architect came down on the Maharajah's commission and built the Palace and at the same time fell in love with the country. Except for the hot weather. To compensate for that he moved North and established a Hotel in Lahore and Murree and eventually ended up in Kashmir. He established Hotels in Srinagar and Gulmarg as well. And boy were these places famous. The great Explorer and Soldier Sir Francis Younghusband (for those not in the know he captured Lhasa in a fight with the Tibetans) had this to say about the Hotel and Srinagar 'Srinagar is indeed a gay place for the summer months', he wrote, 'with games going on every day, dances nearly every week, dinners, garden parties and picnics.' And that's Sir Francis Younghusband speaking.

Most of you connected to Kashmir would have well made out which Hotel and which family I am talking about. And of course now they are a fully Kashmiri family in all respects. But still it makes for a fascinating story. I wish someday someone from their family would write a Book on the story of their family. The Hotel in Srinagar if you can believe it had a Chandelier presented to it by none other than Nikita Khrushchev himself. Yes Nikita Khrushchev of the “We will bury you’ infamy.

Moving on there is another family which has its roots in Afghanistan. The Afghans ruled Kashmir for a long period of time and as such there are many families that trace their origin to Afghanistan. But this particular family had an interesting story. They belonged to the ruling Barakzai clan but in a war of succession they fell on the wrong side of a family feud. Most of their relatives on their side met a brutal fate and were tied to the mouth of cannons and you know the rest of the story. However a few of them managed to escape and made their way into Kashmir. Owing to their Royal status and being Barakzais the Dogra Maharajah recognized their importance and inducted them into their service. One of the Afghan Gentlemen was appointed the Inspector General of Police of Kashmir and the family was then settled in Kashmir. The family did well and today the Great Grandson of the original migrants from Afghanistan is a friend of mine. Incidentally they also have a great Hotel in Srinagar amongst other businesses.

The two instances I gave you are of people who came voluntarily one out of choice and one out of distress and made Kashmir their home. Then there is the story of two Princes and their entourage who were taken as “Guests” (read Hostages) to Kashmir from their homelands in Gilgit and Hunza to ensure good conduct of the Rulers of Nagar and Hunza as they had rebelled against the Central authorities in Kashmir. Once they were subjugated again some guests were taken from the Royal families to Kashmir to ensure conduct compliance by the Rulers in line with what the Kashmir authorities wanted. Of course the Two Princes and their retinue could never return and settled in Mohalla in Rainawari in Kashmir which is today called the Botraj Mohalla and the descendants of the Princes still continue to live in the Mohalla. They tend to marry amongst each other and keep alive their Religious and Lingual traditions. And they still continue to be respected as descendants of a Royal family from Hunza by their Kashmiri neighbors and held in high esteem.

These are just three examples of foreigners who came in and kind of assimilated with the local population. Well almost. But most of their stories are now forgotten. Only remembered by a few who care to remember. Maybe one day all such stories would be compiled. Maybe.

Now to look for a pic to go with the story.

Nothing better than the Hari Parbat Fort. The only existing Fort in the Valley.

Pic from July 2018. Hari Parbat Fort, Srinagar, Kashmir. Pic Courtesy Ankit Gupta

The Hari Parbat Fort, Srinagar, Kashmir

The Hari Parbat Fort 

Standing next to the massive Fort walls

The Hari Parbat is the only surviving Fort in the Kashmir region of the state of Jammu and Kashmir. It stands over a hill also known as the Koh-I-Maraan and originally was the site of a Fort built by Emperor Akbar. He had also built a large fortification Wall at the base of the Hill parts of which survive till today.

The Hari Parbat Fort as it looms above the Old City of Srinagar

The present structure was built by the Afghans when Kashmir was a part of the Afghan Durrani Empire under Shah Shuja Durrani. Ironically Shah Shuja Durrani was himself held prisoner in the Fort by the Governor of Kashmir, Atta Muhammed Khan. Atta Muhammed Khan had declared himself pretty much independent after his father was murdered in Kabul by supporters of a certain claimant to the Throne. As it so happened in 1808, the Afghan King Shah Shuja was ousted by the same individual, Muhammed Shah and his minister Fateh Khan. Atta Muhammed Khan invited Shah Shuja to come to Kashmir from where he could still go on ruling as the King of Afghanistan. Shah Shuja took the offer and landed up in Srinagar only to find himself Atta Muhammed Khan's prisoner at the Hari Parbat Fort.

The Fort from the Dal Lake side.

However a force of Durrani Afghans in alliance with the Sikhs of Maharaja Ranjit Singh landed in Kashmir soon after and the Sikhs got Shah Shuja Durrani free from his prison inside the Hari Parbat Fort. As per Sikh history sources the ultimate prize promised to Maharaja Ranjit Singh for getting Shah Shuja Durrani freed from the Hari Parbat Fort was the Koh-I-Noor Diamond. Having done his part of the deal and having delivered Shah Shuja Durrani safely to his wife in Lahore the Maharaja of Punjab soon got the possession of the fabled diamond. Maharaja Ranjit Singh who being a Cavalry man had great love for Horses and had the Kohinoor mounted as a head piece on his favorite Horse which he used to ride.

Inside the Fort

The Sikh flag of Maharaja Ranjit Singh finally flew over the Hari Parbat Fort when the Sikhs under the able leadership of General Hari Singh Nalwa finally defeated the Afghans in 1820. After a brief period of Sikh rule Kashmir and the Fort changed hands and landed in the hands of the Dogras led by Raja Gulab Singh after the Sikh loss in the First Anglo Sikh War of 1846. The Dogra Rule lasted for just a fraction over 100 years and in 1947 it became a part of India and since then the Fort has been occupied by the Security Forces.

The Fort from Pari Mahal 

The Fort still stands as proud as ever on ite vantage point overlooking the Srinagar city. The Fort Hillside holds some important places of worship for varied religious inclinations. There is the Shrine of Makhdoom Sahib, a saint held in great reverence by the Kashmiri Muslims. There is the Sharika Devi Mandir who is worshipped as an incarnation of Shakti. On the day celebrated as Sharika's birthday, devotees make a sacrificial offering of taher-charvan to the goddess (taher - rice boiled with turmeric powder and mixed with oil and salt; charvan – cooked goat liver). Then there is the Chatti Padshahi Gurudwara where the Sixth Guru, Guru Hargobind had supposedly preached and stayed for a few days during a visit to Kashmir. This Gurudwara is considered the holiest Sikh shrine in Kashmir.

The Hazratbal Shrine with the Hari Parbat Fort in the Background.

For me the Hari Parbat stands as a sentinel which silently watches over the myriads of events which have happened in this thence troubled land. And it keeps watching. With the mighty Pir Panjals in the background.

It looks beautiful when its lit up in the evening but this capture by Ramesh Tahlan Sir captures the essence of this mighty Fort, the only Fort in the Valley of Kashmir which still stands strong having withstood the vagaries of time.