Many of us have traveled to Ladakh and many have visited the Nubra Valley and of course Turtuk is now a famous destination because of its Balti culture. Infact technically Turtuk lies in what was traditionally Baltistan though now divided by the Line of Control with most of Baltistan being on the other side though a small sliver of Baltistan lies on the Indian side. And most people are also aware of the fact that Turtuk came under Indian control in 1971.
So where exactly does Baltistan begin and Ladakh end ? Well to be honest there is no such defined physical feature but most consider the Chorbat Valley as a part of Baltistan rather than Ladakh. In the pre-partition days Chorbat was an “Ilakka” in the Baltistan Wazarat. Geographically the Chorbat Valley starts at the point where the Shyok Valley narrows and becomes a Gorge before the Village of Bogdang. Bogdang is considered the first Village of the Chorbat Valley and hence the first Village of Baltistan. Technically it lies sandwiched between the Ladakh Range and the Karakorams.
Chorbat as shown in the Classical Starchey’s Map of 1858
Chorbat as seen on Google Satellite View
The first Village being Bogdang, the next one is Chalunka and then its the biggest Balti Village, the famous Turtuk. Most people assume that Turtuk is the last Village before the LoC but its not. There is Tyakshi beyond Turtuk where one can go with permission and beyond Tyakshi lies the last Village on the Indian side of the LoC called Thang. One is allowed to go beyond Tyakshi but not all the way to Thang. One can see the Village of Thang from a distance though one is allowed to go to Thang only if one is a local or has relatives in the Village.
The first view o Thang
Though I was lucky enough to manage to go all the way to the Village and have a walk around and also got to Pluck Apricots for which the Region is famous. The Apricots of this area are jus something else. And from Thang in the distance one can see the Greenery of the first Village on the other side called Franu. Of course many people from the Villages who have relatives on the other side and have long demanded ease of Travel.
A sign welcoming you to the Northernmost Village of India
The first House in Thang
Infact in 1947 only Bogdang and Chalunka were on the Indian side but in 1971 Indian Forces took Turtuk, Tyakshi and Thang and overnight these Baltistani Villages became a part of India instead of Pakistan. Historically the Chorbat Valley which stretches from Bogdang all the way to Khaplu where the Shyok Valley opens up again. There are 13 Villages traditionally in the Chorbat Valley with 5 of them on the Indian side now. Also the Chorbat La was a traditional Pass which connected Ladakh with Baltistan from the Dah side along the Indus side.
The Starting point of the Chorbat Valley
The start of the Chrobat Valley where it widens up.
Chorbat was also a small Kingdom with the Capital at Siska which was also called Chorbat though later the Capital was moved to Turtuk and many Members of the Royal Family still live in Turtuk including the “King” who many people have had the pleasure of meeting in Turtuk. The Gentleman also has a very interesting Museum which has a Collection of old Personal and Royalty related items.
The Apricot Fields of Franu
And Chorbat was always heavily influenced by Ladakhi culture as well which is only expected as both Ladakhis and Baltis are of Tibetan stock and have various similarities especially in Language. Infact the Balti script and language is considered the closest one to Old Tibetan. This just adds another colorful dimension to the area known as Chorbat which is not really well known on the Tourist circuit.
One of those Natural Cold Storages common in the Region
The Green Fields of the Village of Franu across the Line of Control