The Church in Nampong

Nampong - Hell’s Gate on the Stillwell Road

Nampong was the last town on the Indian side on the Stilwell or the Ledo Road as it was called. It was around 13 kms before the infamous Pangsau Pass which was also called the Hell’s Pass and Nampong was considered the gateway to Hell's Pass and hence the name Hell’s Gate. This was when the Road started a climb to get over the Pansau Pas which was at almost 1200 m and Nampong was at about 300 m.

In the Himalayan context the altitude would not sound much but the fact remains that building a Road over this Pass was much more complex and dangerous than probably the one built over the Karakoram Pass. The road only became a possibility as it was a desperate situation and the desperate situation needed a desperate solution. The solution was called the Ledo Road only to be renamed later as the Stillwell Road. Though there was already an Air connect over the Hump, it had to be supplemented with a Road link as well to push the supplies of men and material into China to supplement the Chinese in their War effort against the Imperial Japanese Army.

The Entrance to Nampong Town

Interestingly there is a Lake near the Pangsau Pass called the Pangsau Lake but the Amercians gave it another name. The Lake of no Return. It is said that many Planes crashed into this Lake but no traces of either the Planes or the Men or Supplies in it ever found. Hence the name the Lake of no Return. It was almost like the Bermuda Triangle in the Patkai Hills between Indian and Burma. The Lake even today is clearly visible on Google Earth but it lies on the Burmese side beyond the Pass so the possibility of going there is remote.

The town of Nampong (it used to be a Village but thanks to the Road its now a not so bustling Town of 4000+ people) was on our wishlist as I wanted to have a look at Hells Gate if not the Hell’s Pass itself. And a few years back the Indian authorities used to allow Indians all the way to Pangsau Pass but in recent years the access has been restricted. However there is a small window and the Army (the Assam Rifles actually) allow the locals across the Border on the 10th, 20th and 30th. And as luck would have it, it was the 30th of November so here was a chance which we could not miss. So with very high hopes we started from Miao in the morning with all hopes of getting to the Hells Pass.

The Patkai Hills beyond which lay Burma

The Stillwell Road (its the National Highway now) is now a smooth two-lane excellent piece of tarmac winding through some of the greenest scenery you can see. Low undulating Hills, thick forests, Tea Garden and small streams and best of all hardly any people or traffic. Quite a contrast from the Stillwell Road of the old which induced nightmares. So we drove and I made Videos on the way and luckily it was a clear sunny day and it wasnt too hot also. And onwards we drove through the breathtaking scenery all the way to Nampong town.

I for one always insist on travelers to read about the places they plan to visit. Read about the history especially and any historical significance attached to the Town. It will just make the place much more attractive to you. What would otherwise have been a quite little border town not gets linked to the Stillwell Road, the Second World War and even the Bermuda Triangle. Who would even think of such stuff ?

On the Stillwell Road

Anyways we reached nampong after a quick drive sooner than we expected due to the super excellent Roads. And drove through Town which looked as sleepy as they come. And we passed the Town and started climbing. And it was hardly a km out of Town that we came across the Army check Post. We went and spoke to them and they told us that this is as far as you can go back. Not allowed beyond this point.  But its the 30th and arent people allowed till the actual Border we asked them. That's only for the local people of Nampong and not outsiders. Where can we get permission from we asked ? The SDO (Sub-Divisonal Officer they said) they told us and also gave us the directions to the SDO’s office. So a couple of us went down to the SDO’s Office while I stood up taking a Video of the pretty little town. And as expected the SDO didn't give permission. Strict orders from the Home Ministry was cited as the reason. I had a fair idea why the permission was now diificult but thats another story for another day.

Well anyways we are happy to have come so far. Next time for sure we will get to the Hell’s Pass from Hell’s Gate and maybe even to the Lake of No Return :)

Video from November 30, 2019

Stillwell Road to Nampong Town and beyond.